Motor mount bolts.

[canadian]

So what's the top secret method to get a wrench on the frame pad top nut on the drivers side of the truck? The only way I can see getting to it is on top of the diff between the diff and the mount welded to the frame. Kind of hard to describe. Just wondering if there is an easier method to get a wrench on it. How the hell are you supposed to hold a nut on the back side when you can't even get a wrench in there?

 

[gjp]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

Here is the easiest way I found to do it. LOL

 

[Black Knight]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

No, there's not alot easy about this. I dropped the diff. to do it, you probably don't have to pull it all the way out. Then you can either get to the nuts from the front or the back of the truck, I can't remember.

 

[gjp]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

I heard if you losten up the bolts it will drop a few inches to alow clearance. I think Don W. is about to do the same thing.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

I'm doing mine as well with engine in the truck. I was thinking of just swinging the dif down but the front dif mounting bolt on the drivers side looks like it's impossible to get to the nut inside the frame. I'm beginning to have a severe dislike for whomever designed this truck... Haven't got there yet but supposedly you can reach it by removing the dif vent hose to gain a bit more room.

 

[ghettosled]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

use a stubby wrench.. slides right up in there.

 

[canadian]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

Other than dropping the diff, I've tried everything. I don't know how you'd get a stubby wrench all the way up there since I can't even fit a hand between the bottom of the frame mount and the top of the diff even with the diff hose removed.

All of the other bolts so far have been really easy to get out. I've got the lower I/C out, took off the crossover, and removed the steering shaft to get access to everything so far. For lifting the motor, I've found it's easiest to jack it up using the inspection cover at the front of the trans.

There's barely any room to see what you're doing too. The only way I can even see the nut on the backside is to lay on my back right under the front diff and look up between the diff and the frame rail. I can see it, but can't get a socket between the diff and the frame because it's too tight. Of course, trying to do this with one set of hands is even harder....

Back to work.

 

[canadian]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

Finally got it. I was going to resort to dropping the front diff to get a little more access to the nut on the back side. Since none of the wrenches I had would work, I went out and got a cheapie set of offset box end wrenches to get the nut in the frame for the diff. I figured I'd try getting to the nut with the 15mm one and it worked, so I don't have to drop the diff. I wiggled the wrench between the top of the diff and the opening on the bottom side of the frame mount. 10 minutes and the bolt was off using only one pair of hands.

Now to get the motor side...

 

[clone 94]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

warren, i just returned your PM. let me know if you still need a hand and i'll stop by after work

 

[UR50SLO]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

I torched out all my bolts and used a 90deg grinder to clean up all the frame surface. I installed the Moroso mounts to the block and a very tight fitting center bolt through the frame pad and engine mount. I set the engine in and bolted it up to the transmission and centered the engine. There was only one bolt hole on each frame pad that lines up good. Once I was sure that the engine was centered and fit good I welded the frame pads in place. I'm glad I did it this way because I've heard the alot of guys had to use a small long center bolt and had a tough time getting it in.
When I finished my engine and set it down in place for the last time it was a perfect fit. No hassels with installing it or using too small of a bolt.
That's my method.
Hope that helps,
Scott~

 

[canadian]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

warren, i just returned your PM. let me know if you still need a hand and i'll stop by after work

Sounds good. now i'm stuck on the motor side. the rubber between the block and the frame pad is getting in the way of everything. I've got the rear upper bolt out no problem since the heat shield isn't in the way there. I'm going to try and get a small tie down strap, loop it through the cross bolt holes and then over the shock tower to try and pull the rubber up and out of the way of the lower bolt. One of the biggest pains is that it takes 20-30 minutes to get to the closest store that has any of this stuff!

 

[gjp]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

I had a hard time getting around that rubber even with the motor on a stand. Good luck. Keep at it. A few bad words, a beer or two and you will have it.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

Anybody have the part # for the Moroso mounts? I can prolly get those in town since I haven't heard from JS mfg. Any other others I/we should consider?

 

[gjp]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

Its 62500. RPM sells the pads and the mounts for 105$

 

[canadian]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

http://www.turbotime.us/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=10B0000-1113699846http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35073&highlight=62500

The driver side is done. There is a little mismatch between the frame pad and the motor mount, but nothing insane, maybe 1/8" or so. The key is to get yourself a set of ratcheting tie downs. I attached one side to the forward hole of the engine mount. The other side I attached to a hole on the frame just below the body mount and started pulling. I practically pulled the rubber mount off of the metal pad and that allowed me to get a socket on the bolt heads for the motor pad. I'm hoping that the passenger side is easier to get to, but that will have to wait till Sunday hopefully.

 

[canadian]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

The passenger side isn't any easier. I have the top rear and bottom bolt to remove. Looks like I will have to drop the starter to get some decent access. That's something I didn't want to do.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Motor mount bolts.

What I did was actually fairly simple in retrospect. Remove the front dif support bolt to the frame, drivers side. Remove the 4 bolts holding the pas side of the dif in place so the support piece can be removed. Dif will now drop down a bit allowing good access to drivers side bolts and, since the support bracket is removed, good access to pas side. Starter was in for all of this.

Truck is not back together yet, changing freeze plugs. For that dif is completely out but that's another story.