need help

[fabricator]

ok guys i don't know what i did but here it goes. i went to check the timeing with my light thought i had it right but did not unplug the spark advance so went back to redo it and it will not start. no fuel presure reading. changed all the relays on the firewall new map sencer new cap and rotor new plugs, wires i have spark went to jump the fuel pumpto see if it works terminal G is missing from the aldl terminal under the dash treased the wires up under the dash can't find it any wear i think the fuel pump was replaced before i got the truck all the hose clamps were there just not tite checked the wireing around the dist.oh and i do not have any code readings did i tossted the ecm ? i realy could use some help. thanks

 

[4C FED]

Re: need help

Check the ECM B fuse under the dash first. It's common for this fuse to open when and aftermarket pump is installed.
Also to see if the pump is working, locate the loose gray wire on the firewall near the diamond shaped terminal block. Take a piece of wire, run it from the battery to the connector on the wire. This will power the pump so you should see fuel pressure, assuming the pump is good. No pressure, bad pump.
There are also 2 fusible links that come off the back of the alternator. Check these to see if one has maybe opened.

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

Check the ECM B fuse under the dash first. It's common for this fuse to open when and aftermarket pump is installed.
Also to see if the pump is working, locate the loose gray wire on the firewall near the diamond shaped terminal block. Take a piece of wire, run it from the battery to the connector on the wire. This will power the pump so you should see fuel pressure, assuming the pump is good. No pressure, bad pump.
There are also 2 fusible links that come off the back of the alternator. Check these to see if one has maybe opened.

ok hot wired the pump it works 45#s how do you know if the fuse links are open or not .

 

[4C FED]

Re: need help

I'm not sure. I've never had one go bad on me. Did you take a look at them?
They are the 2 wires that have what looks like large round white plastic covers on them. I would imagine that one of them might be brown or black since basically the wire melts inside creating the open circuit.
Did you check the ECM B fuse?

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

I'm not sure. I've never had one go bad on me. Did you take a look at them?
They are the 2 wires that have what looks like large round white plastic covers on them. I would imagine that one of them might be brown or black since basically the wire melts inside creating the open circuit.
Did you check the ECM B fuse?

yes both ecm fuses are good replaced anyway the link at tha alt. look good. there white so i guess thats good. where does the ecm ground at my hands spent some time behind the dist.

 

[4C FED]

Re: need help

Maybe you broke a wire to or accidentally unplugged the oil pressure sensor connector.
It's down behind the distributor.
You'll need a flashlight to look back behind the distributor on the block.
The sensor is mounted on a ~2" brass nipple. It threads into the nipple horizontally.

The connector looks like this:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64036

 

[sleepy]

Re: need help

If there are two fuses on the back of the alternator, one is probably for the fuel pump. That is an upgrade for powering the pump with alternator voltage. One i believe top be intercooler, and the other for this fuel upgrade... Don't remember what size fuse though

 

[4C FED]

Re: need help

There is an 10A ATO fuse in a holder on the back of the alternator, but that is for the IC pump.

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

Maybe you broke a wire to or accidentally unplugged the oil pressure sensor connector.
It's down behind the distributor.
You'll need a flashlight to look back behind the distributor on the block.
The sensor is mounted on a ~2" brass nipple. It threads into the nipple horizontally.

The connector looks like this:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64036

no unpluged it and looked it over put it back same thing. good cranking good spark just no fuel .60; degree day all sun shine new rpm coilover kit to try out and it won't start this sucks

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

yea that fuse is good it's got to be something that has to do with fuel

 

[4C FED]

Re: need help

If you have a test light or DVM maybe these will help finding the problem.

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

sorry got called to work .but i will look for a tester tomorow. i'm thinking that maybe the ecm might be toast it dose not show any codes on the dash the orange light dose not appear at all the red lights do with the key on and like i said earlyer it has spark just no presure with the fuel it makes me mad that i messed with it in the frist place but thank you for your time if and when i get it fixed i will let you know what it was thanks again :tup:

 

[SY2932]

Re: need help

Are you positive that both ECM A & B fuses are good? Take a test light connected to ground, and with the key on, probe the little 'holes' on each fuse. There must be power on both sides of each fuse.

DITTO Sounds like a blown fuse to me.

"Applying 12 volts to fuel pump test connector to troubleshoot fuel pump or set fuel pressure with vacuum line still connected and motor off (note fuse for safety)."

The fuel pump test connector is a direct connection to the fuel pump and the pump will run even if you take the ECMB fuse out of the fuse block...

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

Are you positive that both ECM A & B fuses are good? Take a test light connected to ground, and with the key on, probe the little 'holes' on each fuse. There must be power on both sides of each fuse.

when the problem first happend one of the fuses was blown i replaced both twice today i will check them again

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

If there is no "Check Engine Light" with key on, it will not start. ECM A is also power to the ECM that tells it that the key is on. This input is what "primes" the fuel pump, and allows the injectors to fire.

Here's a complete off-the-wall thought: This wire (pink/blk) to the ECM, when interrupted, makes a good "ignition kill". I have a hidden switch in all of my S-10s that interrupt this wire. I rarley use it in my DD pick-up. One morning I came out and it wouldn't start, and there was no CEL. I actually substituted the ECM with a another one before I remembered the hidden switch. I had bumped it to 'off' loading crap the evening before.

Could your truck have some kind of 'kill device' in this wire, that you don't know about?

not sure but thats something i will look for never had a problem in two years that i have own this truck with it not strating till i had my hand near the dist. trying toset the timeing dose the ecm ground to the back of the block? the truck was running then i shut it off to titeten the dist.bolt back down never started again .

 

[SY2932]

Re: need help

You *did* unplug the ESC wire under the dash when you were messing with the timing correct?

"The ESC Electronic Spark Timing "tan wire with a black stripe" that everyone can't find when attempting to set their timing (s-series). Wire is under the carpet on the passenger side below the heater box. It is disconnected to set the timing, then reconnected."

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

You *did* unplug the ESC wire under the dash when you were messing with the timing correct?

"The ESC Electronic Spark Timing "tan wire with a black stripe" that everyone can't find when attempting to set their timing (s-series). Wire is under the carpet on the passenger side below the heater box. It is disconnected to set the timing, then reconnected."

no thats when i went back to do it right and could not get it to start the ecm b fuse was blown changed both and still haven't been able to start bought new relays map sencer cap rotor have a new ecm order won't be in till tuesday though

 

[wildphil]

Re: need help

Did you verify those fuse links are good at the reat of the alt.? Mine went bad under the insulation and you could not tell just by looking.

 

[fabricator]

Re: need help

to the man that said to check both sides to the fuse .cootoes to you ecm a only one side was good AND TO ALL that walked me through this thankyou i'm going out to retime it now and yes the brown wire is unpluged :tup::tup: