wheele rider
New member
Any one using synthetic oil in there stock syty engine? Any suggestion? Any kind I should stay away from? Thank you
oil ?
- Thread starter wheele rider
- Start date
Black Knight
I Glow Therefore I am
Re: oil ?
That's all I've ever used Mobile 1 full synthetic.
That's all I've ever used Mobile 1 full synthetic.
SYCLONE#1531
'MOFOFAST
Re: oil ?
IpHoOnDyou
New member
Re: oil ?
Royal purple all the way for me!
Royal purple all the way for me!
syclone809
Member
Re: oil ?
I use Royal Purple, seems fine to me
I use Royal Purple, seems fine to me
92TyLA
New member
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: oil ?
Wouldn't use anything but synthetic. Mobil 1, amsoil, or royal purple all are top quality brands. I use them in my 1100HP dragster so I trust them in my street cars too.
Wouldn't use anything but synthetic. Mobil 1, amsoil, or royal purple all are top quality brands. I use them in my 1100HP dragster so I trust them in my street cars too.
blacktyaffair
Donating Member
Re: oil ?
Any of today's oils are mfg'd to a higher standard than what was produced in 1991-1993. Lack of zinc in today's oils is supposedly a problem for a flat tappet cam. Some say you need an additive such as ZDDP (available from a board member here) and others say the general upgrade in the oil itself is sufficient to overcome any definiency due to the lack of zinc. At this time, I have no proof of either on the flat tappet cam other than adding the zinc additive doesn't hurt.
Mineral based vs synthetic or a blend. Again, any of todays spec oils should be sufficient. Synthetic flows faster and easier than any mineral based. One thing that is not widely discussed is about one of the multi viscoty weights. As shown in a photo above, there is a 0w-30. When an engine is cold, one of the objects is to get the oil through the entire engine as quickly as possible. A 0 weight will do that quicker than a 5, or 10w ect... As operating temp increases, they all become a 30 weight. So why not go for the quicker flowing at cold temp oil? 0w30 synthetic will do it quicker than others.
Then there is the theory/fact that a synthetic will last longer (not break down) as quickly as a mineral based oil so you don't have to change the oil as much. 2 things on this one (imo). They both get dirty equally based on mileage. I change my oil more frequently than any suggested oil change interval so I don't need the super oil that claims it can go 10K miles between changes. Glad to know it can do it, but, I never let it go that long.
I like Castrol Edge (new name for their synthetic) 0w30 European spec formula. Have 246K on my DD with it and no issues. Although some oils are proven to be better than others in certain situations, I assume that all of todays oils are sufficient for a great majority of applications.
Any of today's oils are mfg'd to a higher standard than what was produced in 1991-1993. Lack of zinc in today's oils is supposedly a problem for a flat tappet cam. Some say you need an additive such as ZDDP (available from a board member here) and others say the general upgrade in the oil itself is sufficient to overcome any definiency due to the lack of zinc. At this time, I have no proof of either on the flat tappet cam other than adding the zinc additive doesn't hurt.
Mineral based vs synthetic or a blend. Again, any of todays spec oils should be sufficient. Synthetic flows faster and easier than any mineral based. One thing that is not widely discussed is about one of the multi viscoty weights. As shown in a photo above, there is a 0w-30. When an engine is cold, one of the objects is to get the oil through the entire engine as quickly as possible. A 0 weight will do that quicker than a 5, or 10w ect... As operating temp increases, they all become a 30 weight. So why not go for the quicker flowing at cold temp oil? 0w30 synthetic will do it quicker than others.
Then there is the theory/fact that a synthetic will last longer (not break down) as quickly as a mineral based oil so you don't have to change the oil as much. 2 things on this one (imo). They both get dirty equally based on mileage. I change my oil more frequently than any suggested oil change interval so I don't need the super oil that claims it can go 10K miles between changes. Glad to know it can do it, but, I never let it go that long.
I like Castrol Edge (new name for their synthetic) 0w30 European spec formula. Have 246K on my DD with it and no issues. Although some oils are proven to be better than others in certain situations, I assume that all of todays oils are sufficient for a great majority of applications.
Black Knight
I Glow Therefore I am
Re: oil ?
Also since I deleted the remote oil filter and cooler, I change it more often as well.
Also since I deleted the remote oil filter and cooler, I change it more often as well.
SYCLONE#1531
'MOFOFAST
Re: oil ?
Ive swapped from Amsoil to the new LUCUS HIGH ZINC RACING OIL.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUC-10610-1/?rtype=10
Ive swapped from Amsoil to the new LUCUS HIGH ZINC RACING OIL.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUC-10610-1/?rtype=10
Neelsonwheels
Donating Member
Re: oil ?
Brad Penn 10w 40.
Brad Penn 10w 40.
Re: oil ?
I have used Valvoline 10W-30 All Season since 1965 in five different engines and never had any problems, From 1968 - 1971, we used Valvoline 40 wt. Racing Oil in a Jr. Fuel Dragster (C/FD) 7.57 ET, 182 MPH. Never blew an engine due to oiling. Blew one engine due to a nitro-methane oil pan explosion.. .
On my S10 Blazer 4.3L 4x4, I change the Valvoline All Season 10W-30 every 4,000 miles and the WIX filter every 2,000 miles, mainly 'cause .the remote filter is easily accessible and the WIX filters are relatively cheap.
I use conventional oil rather than synthetic oil because my engines never had the tight clearances and hyper-eutectic pistons that are in the factory engines. We use the recommended synthetic oil in our 2005 Honda Pilot family car.
I have used Valvoline 10W-30 All Season since 1965 in five different engines and never had any problems, From 1968 - 1971, we used Valvoline 40 wt. Racing Oil in a Jr. Fuel Dragster (C/FD) 7.57 ET, 182 MPH. Never blew an engine due to oiling. Blew one engine due to a nitro-methane oil pan explosion.. .
On my S10 Blazer 4.3L 4x4, I change the Valvoline All Season 10W-30 every 4,000 miles and the WIX filter every 2,000 miles, mainly 'cause .the remote filter is easily accessible and the WIX filters are relatively cheap.
I use conventional oil rather than synthetic oil because my engines never had the tight clearances and hyper-eutectic pistons that are in the factory engines. We use the recommended synthetic oil in our 2005 Honda Pilot family car.
Last edited:
Re: oil ?
Im a big fan of Brad Penn grade1 10w-30 in the warmer months and then 10w-40 when the temps are a bit cooler. Amsoil dominator is also a top notch lbricant but for the money Brad Penn cant be beat. Best used in trucks/cars without emissions b/s (catalytic/egr/etc)
Im a big fan of Brad Penn grade1 10w-30 in the warmer months and then 10w-40 when the temps are a bit cooler. Amsoil dominator is also a top notch lbricant but for the money Brad Penn cant be beat. Best used in trucks/cars without emissions b/s (catalytic/egr/etc)
92TyLA
New member
Re: oil ?
$67 for 6 qt!!!:rant:, Man I thought Mobile 1 was pricey.
I'll try the lucas next time, Ive used nothing but Mobil1
$67 for 6 qt!!!:rant:, Man I thought Mobile 1 was pricey.
I'll try the lucas next time, Ive used nothing but Mobil1