I have replaced the following; cap,rotor,dist.,plugs, wires, computer, PROM, map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, egr vacume sylinoid, IAC, and i cant get my ty to hold boost or to idle right. I am lost and dont know what to check next. No codes are present and i seem to have no vacume leaks. I dowloaded datamaster but i need to order the adapter. I havent received any responses on the subject ; so if you have encountered this problem or know of anything to help diagnos this please mail me back..... thanks a lot
Please Help!!
- Thread starter nates92ty
- Start date
SyTyJedi
Jedi Council
This post should be in the Lounge or in Engine Tech.
As far as your problem - have you checked to make sure your timing is set properly?
Can you define "can't get it to idle right" and "hold boost" a bit more? As in - what exactly is it doing/not doing at idle? Is boost fluctuating?
I'd love to try and help, just need to know a bit more about what is happening.
As far as your problem - have you checked to make sure your timing is set properly?
Can you define "can't get it to idle right" and "hold boost" a bit more? As in - what exactly is it doing/not doing at idle? Is boost fluctuating?
I'd love to try and help, just need to know a bit more about what is happening.
SyTyJedi
Jedi Council
^^^ See above ^^^
Posting your problem in the right section of the forum will help. I guarantee you the Lounge gets most of the traffic, definitely way more than where it is now. The more people that see you problem, the better chance you have of getting some help.
No need to get out the devil face.
Posting your problem in the right section of the forum will help. I guarantee you the Lounge gets most of the traffic, definitely way more than where it is now. The more people that see you problem, the better chance you have of getting some help.
No need to get out the devil face.
it seems to build boost for a sec and then the wastegate seems to open up. also my idle will stay at around 650rpm and then it goes to 900rpms and back and forth. Some times when i start it even when the engine is at operating temp. it will be idleing and then slowly die. also i can hear a slight miss out the tailpipe. i have set my base timing to 0 with the tan wire disconnected and the ty idles fine; as soon as i connect the wires it idles bad....
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
check spark plug wires, make sure they arent crossed and make sure they are seated all the way.
SeattleSy#1255
Category 5 Conservative
you said you changed stuff but you never said with what parts...syty's ery specific with plugs etc.............many have problems at idle. what chip are you running, etc?
as for you boost i hear this all the time...if you are stock i can't tellyou how much i tried to get the damn thing to hold boost...everyone will tell you to adjust WG...i say f the entire stock WG setupt and just get an external and solve the problem...but i don't know if that is what it is, but i can tell ya the stock setup up is pathetic at best IMO.
as for you boost i hear this all the time...if you are stock i can't tellyou how much i tried to get the damn thing to hold boost...everyone will tell you to adjust WG...i say f the entire stock WG setupt and just get an external and solve the problem...but i don't know if that is what it is, but i can tell ya the stock setup up is pathetic at best IMO.
the plugs are CR42TS AC Delco. Stock chip, stock ecu, stock turbo and wastegate, stock injectors, stock cap, rotor, and wires. Compression test has been done and is between 122-125 psi. The only thing not stock is the ATR 3inch catback. I checked the firing order and it is right on.
SeattleSy#1255
Category 5 Conservative
what about the boot between the IC and TB is it leaking? Have you ajusted the stock WG at all to see if that makes a difference one way or another? I am still thinking WG rod is sticky.
also after reading through everything, i don't see that you redid ALL the vacuum lines...if they are stock, i'd be anything that is your problem...they get old and crumble...one of the most common problems with a stock syty as old as they are now.
also after reading through everything, i don't see that you redid ALL the vacuum lines...if they are stock, i'd be anything that is your problem...they get old and crumble...one of the most common problems with a stock syty as old as they are now.
SeattleSy#1255
Category 5 Conservative
try this as well..........
http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=find_vacuum_leak.php&dir=engine
http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=find_vacuum_leak.php&dir=engine
thanks for your help. i havent changed any vacume hoses yet and I havent checked for leaks between the IC and the TB. I saw the article on how to check for vacume leaks but how do you check for leaks between the IC and the TB. The only vacume leaks I have checked for is around the TB mount... will data master help much with this? I am going to order the cable soon to hook up my lab top to the ALDL.
SeattleSy#1255
Category 5 Conservative
datamaster isn't going to tell you if you have a vacuum leak really...the first thing you should do is do the vacuum leak test for sure...its a very common problem with the old plastic vacuum lines cracking and its an easy/cheap thing to fix if that is your problem...just takes some time and patience with getting them all right (using a vacuum line diagram). I would imagine that a vacuum leak can affect both idle and boost, you may have more than one.
the bike tube trick may help with the ic to tb boot. someone once told me you can spray some starter fluid around the boot and if the rpm's fluctuate then you got a leak...i never did it but perhaps it works? I just don't want something to blow up in my face LOL...
anyway, for sure start with the vacuum lines...espically since you tried most everything else related to the ignition. In all honesty, you may want to just bypass the test and just replaced them all...they are old now and if they aren't cracked now, then they may crack on you soon.
I can help ya with this simple project if you need it ----PM me.
Here is the diagram to follow.
http://www.syty.huryde.com/images/engine/vacuum_diagram.gif
the bike tube trick may help with the ic to tb boot. someone once told me you can spray some starter fluid around the boot and if the rpm's fluctuate then you got a leak...i never did it but perhaps it works? I just don't want something to blow up in my face LOL...
anyway, for sure start with the vacuum lines...espically since you tried most everything else related to the ignition. In all honesty, you may want to just bypass the test and just replaced them all...they are old now and if they aren't cracked now, then they may crack on you soon.
I can help ya with this simple project if you need it ----PM me.
Here is the diagram to follow.
http://www.syty.huryde.com/images/engine/vacuum_diagram.gif