Pricing Out/Selecting Engine Build

SeattleSy#1255

SeattleSy#1255

Category 5 Conservative
For those who have gone through this...I am looking for advice on where to start in terms of pricing out an engine build, what my options are, and even what actual parts I need to research and look for. I know the list is long, but i need to start somewhere so thought i'd ask those with this experience.

PS: I'v been here for awile so i know some of the options, so i'm not saying "can i use votecs" :wink:

TIA
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
the most important things imo are 4-bolt conversion, some rods, and some pistons...probably 1500-2000 for that....the rest is up to you but it can nickle and dime you to death....the vortec conversion is pretty involved and can get pricey....ported l35's can work pretty good in some cases for a lot less money ....this is alot of work to do and i can imagine it's as involved as building a small home...all depends on what you want to spend...theres a good writeup on huryde that goes through the options of building a 4.3... http://www.syty.huryde.com/html/engine/build_specs.htm sigo has the big list of all the little stuff by part number and price in his rebuild thread... http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27674&highlight=engine+rebuild+recipe

if i had to do it again, i would build a seperate motor (since they're so cheap used) and put both on engine stands and swap everything over the same night and be done with it....stuff gets lost when you leave something apart for a while...
 
sytyguy

sytyguy

Moderated User
Jeff.....if you figure out the build that you're after, shoot me a line and I'll be happy to list the parts that I can get (w/ prices) and also who to get the parts from that I can't get (RPM, Turbotime, etc....).

I do agree with Servando.....I'd go with a separate engine all together for the build unless you feel compelled to use the original engine ('course it ain't "original" by the time you go vortecs, 4 bolt, cam, etc.... :wink: ).

LMK if I can help in any way.

Hood
 
SeattleSy#1255

SeattleSy#1255

Category 5 Conservative
serv/mike...thanks for the info:

of course mike i'll be contacting you but no time soon for the build..i'm trying to acquire knowledge now for when the time comes.

however i'll be calling you about brakes in the next few weeks for sure..you go my business on that one for sure...just waiting for christmas to pass..

MERRY CHRISTMAS by the way. LOL :rock:
 
VermontTy

VermontTy

Support Our Troops
The one piece of advice I'd throw out there; decide up front if you want an 11 sec. truck, or a reliable daily driver with a little more snot. This will pretty much send you down one of several roads.

I'm only running a 20G and stock manifolds / downpipe / IC, but I am not sure how wild I'll go with my ty in the future, so I opted to go with some of the better treats like 4-bolt, Eagle Rods, SRP's, Vortecs, some port and polishing, etc., in case someday I wanted to toss a big turbo, exhaust and intercooler system at it (then upgrade all of the nitty gritty stuff that goes along with it :D ).

Just keep in mind that what you do to the engine itself will limit / give you more options on upgrading reliably.

-adam
 
S

Sy769

Donating Member
You need to find a good block first. With that said there are several options depending on your budget. Finding a good core will take some looking and make sure the block is sonic checked.
Or you could buy either a iron or aluminum bowtie block.
Definitely use a 4 bolt though

It all boils down to budget and goals.

Either way over build the short block.

Either a new billet crank or a well prepped stocker.

Most builds use eagle rods or olivers may be other I don't know of

Vortecs are the way to go
 
DanenGraham

DanenGraham

Big in the rear
I didnt 4-bolt my block. And i wish I would have now. You just never now how how fast you want to go. I also wish i would have gotten the 422 cam insted of the 412. And gone with the JE pistons insted of Speed Pro's. (if your speending this much just spend more)

I think i ended up spending around 3000-4K on my build. I bought most of the parts, then had a machine shop build the long block for me. The shop bill alone was 2200.

I put alot of time into finding the right parts, getting the best price, taking things to the shop, Waiting on the shop to get more parts. I think you best bet is to have one of the guys on the board build you a badass block that can lay the smack down.

Im sure that for $4500 you could get a motor that would be able to take more than you would want to throw. (unless your wanting like low 10's)
 
tbauer03

tbauer03

TRBOBOX
I was aiming to spend 6 grand and nickled and dimed myself to over 7 grand but feel like i got a good motor to go now. Basically broke down like this 2 grand for parts, 1.5k for turbo kit, 2.8K machine shop costs (4bolt, vortec conversion, porting, polishing, align bore, deck, etc etc etc)
Jim Sloan recently broke his crank shaft and the machine shop told him it would not have happend if he had got with 4 bolt splayed caps which you can get from RPM for a good price.
 
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