PTE Install

[Vaders Sy]

How difficult will this be (TE-44)? I have a lift and tools and a couple people who have GN's helping. Just curious what to expect and what problems people typically run into during these installations. I have planned for the whole day (Sunday the 23rd). Any Tips? Advice is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Raist103]

not hard about 4-8 hours depending on the bolts and if you have ever done it before

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

I have heard downpipe clearence can be a bitch...are you using the stock DP?

 

[smeagol]

I have heard downpipe clearence can be a bitch...are you using the stock DP?

PTE and TE44 kinda infer he is referring to the 3" PTE downpipe setup.

I think it's kinda easy, but difficulty is relative, and each job is different.

 

[Falco]

When I replaced my turbo the main problem was removing the nuts. So take your time, especially with the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. Use some kind of spray to lubricate them before you start to work on them. Torching could be help as well. I had to use brute force on one of the nuts and it's time consuming...

Later,

 

[smeagol]

use some PB blaster or something similar, *the night before* you do the work. let that stuff soak in for a while... makes life lots easier.

 

[Vaders Sy]

My mistake guys, forgot to mention that the kit included the 3 in. DP from PTE. I figure with a lift and tons of tools and 5 sets of hands it shouldn't take to long. I would soak the bolts but I have to drive the Sy a hour and a half to get to the place or would it be okay to soak over night and still drive it that distance? Do you guys see a problem there? Any other suggestions or tips?

Thanks guys.

 

[smeagol]

Soak 'em anyways... you don't have to let 'em SIT once you spray the bolts.

 

[E-Rue]

I would soak the bolts but I have to drive the Sy a hour and a half to get to the place.

ouch my burning fingers. that turbo is hot. owwwwww oweeeeee

that burns. holy hell that burns.

e

 

[0966Sy]

I used two 15mm stubbie wrench's on the manifold bolts. Use one wrench on the bolts, and one as a cheater to help break em loose. I used PB blast, worked very well. I only let it sit for about an hour. Taking out the rad and passenger wheel well helps. Also taking off the compressor side of the turbo before you take it off the manifold gives you a little more room.

Prepare to bust some knuckles

Erik

 

[Vaders Sy]

Thanks for all the advice and help. As always, more is welcome.

 

[ghettosled]

usually getting the stock downpipe apart from the cat is the hardest part. Especially lying on the ground with dirt and rust falling in your face. The turbo nuts can also be a pain in the butt if rusted.. Everything goes back on like cake, and there are really no clearance issues other then the turbo compressor housing coming really close to the ac compressor.

 

[Vaders Sy]

I was looking at the Helm's manual for the Sy and noticed the stock turbo has the oil feed line and the oil return line obviously, but it also shows a coolant return line and a sensor that is mounted on the compressor housing. Not sure what to do with them! Any help?

 

[SY756]

I was looking at the Helm's manual for the Sy and noticed the stock turbo has the oil feed line and the oil return line obviously, but it also shows a coolant return line and a sensor that is mounted on the compressor housing. Not sure what to do with them! Any help?

You should have received plugs for the water feed and return line for the block when you got the 44. If not you'll need to get some and plug the water inlet and outlet on the block.
When you say "sensor" on the compressor I guess you mean on the stock turbo. If so, your talking about the boost control solonoid and you'll need to keep that unless your going to a manual type boost control. Just splice it into the line that goes to the wastegate actuator.

HTH

 

[Vaders Sy]

Thanks for the help about the coolant line. I plan on using a manual boost controller so i'll just disconnect the sensor. Thanks for all the help again guys!