Removing Turbo

[SeattleSy#1255]

question about removing stock turbo/dp:

am i to expect a bunch of coolant or oil blowing out of these lines when disconnected? any adivce on this?

the o2 sensor...do i just screw her out and set her aside?

any other suggestions or imput or advice would be great. TIA

any suggestion for getting cat out?

Jeff

PS...all bolts already sprayed to loosen up.

 

[Ty0279]

from another thread:

1.Remove hood
2.remove wheel
3.remove wheel fender well.
4.Drain IC coolant
5.remove IC and air filter tube.
6.remove wastegate rod bolts from turbo
7.remove boost control module if that is what it is called on top of wastegate.
8.Disconnect all lines flowing through turbo
9.loosen DP bolt next to starter
10. Remove 3 15mm bolts on DP.
11.Remove 4 15mm bolts on turbo exhaust inlet.
12.Wiggle off turbo.

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

ya kurt i read that but looking for other input if anyone has any...

 

[kwick6]

Re: Removing Turbo

question about removing stock turbo/dp:

am i to expect a bunch of coolant or oil blowing out of these lines when disconnected? any adivce on this?

No, you'll get very little oil. Just drain the radiator and then drain the remaining coolant into a pan under the truck and install the plugs.

the o2 sensor...do i just screw her out and set her aside?

yes

any other suggestions or imput or advice would be great. TIA

any suggestion for getting cat out?
Jeff

PS...all bolts already sprayed to loosen up.

PB Blast the manifold bolts and exhaust connections the night before and it should help. Also , keep the sawzall nearby with a good supply of blades incase you get impatient. :wink:

Probably want to have a torch ready to heat the ends up, and a mallet to get it free. Mine didn't cooperate much and I was in a hurry so it got ugly :lol:



I'm sure you've probably had the IC off, so just remove the 3 bolts underneath and if you have rubber lines , just rotate it out of the way.



I would suggest unbolting the A/C compressor and setting it aside (the rubber hoses can bend enough to set it off to the passenger side, just don't bend the aluminum lines).

Pay close attention to the bolts on the compressor as they have a flat side on the head of them. You rotate them to that flat side, then pull them out. You might need to use a screwdriver to pry just a little , but they will clear.


The A/C bracket is a PITA, as the very bottom bolt is almost directly behind the waterpump. You might just want to remove the lower radiator hose to access that bolt.



Having the A/C bracket out really opens it up to access the top manifold bolts. You'll get a couple of the manifold bolts off through the passenger fenderwell, and the top two bolts from under the hood. I don't see a need to remove the hood, I didn't need to.



You'll have the truck jacked up quite high, so have a small step stool to stand on in front of the truck, to reach down in there.

Take the coolant line off at the lower intake, then at the turbo, and underneath on the bottom of the block. Be careful on the lower intake, when your taking that piece off, its made of aluminum and not an easy item to replace. :wink:


Unbolt the oil return line on the bottom and just leave it. Loosen and remove the oil feed line on top of the stock turbo and move it out of the way.



Take the 3 studs/bolts off the stock downpipe and there is a flange you'll need to get at from below that the stock downpipe is attached to. You just take the nut off, and pull the DP flange off and put the nut back on, its also for the trans dipstick tube. Once you have all that stuff loose, then take the turbo off the manifold and pull the DP up out of there. Be careful, that flange on the DP might try and hook onto some wiring thats right there.


Once you have the stock turbo out, get the antisieze ready for the manifold studs.

Then you can put the new turbo on the manifold studs. Put the manifold nuts on, hook the oil feed/drain lines up.


Get the DP up to the turbo and get the allen head bolts started (antiseize those too). You might want to get the new cat on the exhaust, then put the DP on the cat, then the turbo. I didn't bolt mine up to an existing exhaust, so it might have to go in a specific order, for it to all fit together.


Now its just a matter of putting the clamps on the DP and snugging them up, you'll need to twist / pull the DP to make it clear the frame, but it'll clear. Then just put everything back together.


You'll have to come up with a hose to use on the turbo-IC. I think theres a part # on here somewhere for one. If your battery isn't moved, you might have to put something on the turbo inlet until you address that.


A smaller, compact battery may allow for a hose to fit through, and you could put a K&N up where your stock overflow for the radiator is and just get a replacement overflow and mount it where the stock airbox used to be.

Hope that helps a little. If I think of anything else, I'll put it up.

I bet your gonna be happy when you get this turbo bolted up. :woot:

later,

 

[crashing_sux]

It'll be nice to have another fast Sy around when you get that work done. I'll have to head up to Seattle in a few months so we can head out to the drag strip and have a little fun.

 

[spooldup]

make sure you use copper antisieze.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Removing Turbo

Take the 3 studs/bolts off the stock downpipe and there is a flange you'll need to get at from below that the stock downpipe is attached to. You just take the nut off, and pull the DP flange off and put the nut back on, its also for the trans dipstick tube. Once you have all that stuff loose, then take the turbo off the manifold and pull the DP up out of there. Be careful, that flange on the DP might try and hook onto some wiring thats right there.

One quick note, your going to need to remove the cat off the downpipe before pull the stock Downpipe out. It woun't come out in one piece unless you pull the motor. You can cut the downpipe yourself or bring it to an exhaust shop (where they will probably cut the catalytic converter).

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

thanks guys...i'll be doing a little a day as time is minimal.

Scott, i'll keep ya posted.

 

[kwick6]

Re: Removing Turbo

One quick note, your going to need to remove the cat off the downpipe before pull the stock Downpipe out. It woun't come out in one piece unless you pull the motor. You can cut the downpipe yourself or bring it to an exhaust shop (where they will probably cut the catalytic converter).

Agreed. It might be easiest to just take it to an exhaust shop and have them cut out the cat at the flange. A sawzall isn't the best tool to use here, as its really tough to cut through that stock exhaust. This was the worst part of the installation for me... so if anyone has some other tips on getting that stock cat / DP out, please post it.

 

[odium]

Would a cutting torch not work?

 

[kwick6]

Would a cutting torch not work?

yes, it'll work

 

[Ian Turgeon]

I've done it twice without getting at the AC compressor. I'd give the nuts on the turbo a couple of tries first. If they prove too difficult, then go after the AC.
You'll have to do the downpipe first though, to get you some room to work with. If you have short wrenches they will help here.

Little or no oil will come from the oil lines. Coolant lines will drain for a long time if you dont take the opertunity to flush your radiator.

If your bolting on another mitsu, prepare before hand and get new studs or bolts to mount the dp, dont even bother trying to salvage the existing ones out of the turbo.

 

[kwick6]

Here is something else to add as far as the exhaust removal goes.....

"Hi, I wanted to comment; to remove my stock downpipe it was ABSOLUTELY
IMPERATIVE that I unbolt and remove the tranny crossmember. I spent 2 and a
half days trying to do it any other way until I finally came to the
realization that it was absolutely impossible on my truck to remove the DP
with the motor installed, without dropping that crossmember. I wanted to
keep the downpipe in mint condition.

Also, removing the CAT could be a quite impossible task to do in your
driveway, if you are concerned with keeping it mint like I wanted to
(Cutting was not acceptable). We took it on a lift at a friendly GM dealer
and heated it glowing red with an Acetelyne torche and STILL it was
difficult to remove, after 4 minutes eventually we hit it hard enough with a
mallet that it jostled loose. But imagine how impossible this would have
been without the torch!!! My recommendation is to not even fool with it in
the garage; pay/lend/borrow whatever you have to do, to have someone else do
it with a proper torch on a lift. Then you can drive the truck home with an
open downpipe and continue the project."


That is good info , and I would recommend it as well.

 

[bezerk]

Here is something else to add as far as the exhaust removal goes.....

"Hi, I wanted to comment; to remove my stock downpipe it was ABSOLUTELY
IMPERATIVE that I unbolt and remove the tranny crossmember. I spent 2 and a
half days trying to do it any other way until I finally came to the
realization that it was absolutely impossible on my truck to remove the DP
with the motor installed, without dropping that crossmember. I wanted to
keep the downpipe in mint condition.

Also, removing the CAT could be a quite impossible task to do in your
driveway, if you are concerned with keeping it mint like I wanted to
(Cutting was not acceptable). We took it on a lift at a friendly GM dealer
and heated it glowing red with an Acetelyne torche and STILL it was
difficult to remove, after 4 minutes eventually we hit it hard enough with a
mallet that it jostled loose. But imagine how impossible this would have
been without the torch!!! My recommendation is to not even fool with it in
the garage; pay/lend/borrow whatever you have to do, to have someone else do
it with a proper torch on a lift. Then you can drive the truck home with an
open downpipe and continue the project."


That is good info , and I would recommend it as well.

2,5 days to remove the downpipe?

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

i'v got all the manifold nuts off as well as the DP nuts off...this was easy a pie IMO...

what I can't get at is the damn coolany feed line and i'm trying to do this without removing the AC compressor...that is the only thing it is blocking at this point, everything else I can get to.

any advice on this?

 

[sytyguy]

I have gotten better access to the coolant bolt by taking the turbo apart (into 2 halves via the band clamp). However, it will most likely require the use of an impact gun due to the fact that your now having to hold the turbo while breaking loose the bolt.

If the turbo is stubborn to come apart, use a rubber hammer and whack the piss outta the back of the compressor cover.

HTHs

Hood

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

how about this: what is the exact size of the collant feed line so i can try to get the correct wrench on there?

TIA

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

also, i have access to a cutting torch...

what is the best method of use of using this thing in terms of removing the cat from DP?

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

I got everything out now, with the exception of the two coolany lines unplugged from the block and the upper intake.

the dp and cat was by far the biggest PITA of the removal process and resulted in a sawzall ass kicking to solve the problem. There is zero need to remove the tranny crossmember unless perhaps it'll aid in the install process which I don't see happening at all. There is also no need to take it to an exhaust shop unless you want to spare everything for some reason. I only have two jackstands and a jack and am in my cold messy garage. I say suck it up and be persistant and certainly not in a rush.

the dp nuts and turbo nuts were easy and no need to remove the A/C compressor at all.

the only thing i just don't get is how to remove either of the coolant plugs from the block or the upper intake. The one on the block is almost impossible to get to and when I do get to it, there is literally zero millimerts to move a wrench to even loosen it a millimter at a time.

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

just a FYI...i ended up having to move the starter to get to that coolant line...