Running Rich getting code 44

Okay, trying to get DM working on my 93'. She's running pig rich. I suspect it's a stuck injector but I want to log it.

I have an ALDL to serial cable from AKM electronics. It is an OBD I cable, but it has an OBD II connector on it (Was made to interface with a different vehicle).

I have used it on OBD I cars before with some jumpers that I made to go from the OBD II cable to the OBD I connector in the car. Just had to be careful that nothing crossed.

Well I tried the same logic on the Ty with DM TT tonight, this as my guide:

OBD1.com
The ALDL Cable
Let's look at the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) OBD1 interface cable first, since we sell low cost ALDL OBD1 interface cables. It may possibly be the only thing you will need to buy to do your own diagnostics. You can make your own cable, but it is much quicker and less headache to buy one already assembled and tested. Our cables are based on a reliable and simple design, explained here.

Under your cars dash you will most likely see this style connector:


obd1pinout2.gif


There are other styles of connectors, but the 12 pin OBD1 connector shown above is the most common. Some 1994-95 cars have the 16 pin OBD2 connector (shown below), Corvette's, Camaro's, and LT1 cars among them. Even though it is an OBD2 connector, it has an OBD1 system behind it on these 94-95 cars. If you have a 94 or 95 car with the 16 pin connector, we sell 16 pin connector shell cables for it here.


obd2pinout.gif

I couldn't get com jumping pin A to pin 5 and pin M to pin 9.

I also looked at AKM's site and found this

www.akmelectronics.com
For the older rectangular 12-pin style, the under dash connector has the following pinout:

F E D C B A
G H J K L M

A = Ground
B = Mode Select
M = Serial Data
(on some older cars E = Serial Data, my cable has "E" and "M" tied together anyway)

For the OBDII style connector (16-pin D shaped), it has the following pinout:

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08
09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

05 = Ground
06 = Mode Select
09 = Serial Data

So I did pin 6 to pin B. All that did was lockup the converter.

So what am I missing? Are the pin outs different on the Ty than a normal OBDI car?

Thanks guys
 
Last edited:

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: ALDL connecting

Re: ALDL connecting

can't really help much but here's what www.syty.org/old has



aldl.gif


A Ground
B Diagnostic Terminal
F T.C.C. (If Used)
H Speed Input From Antilock Module
M Serial Data
 
Re: ALDL connecting

Re: ALDL connecting

Welp, I figured it out in the daylight when I could actually read the numbers that identify the pins. The diagram I was using for the OBD II connector is male, however my cable is female so I had things transposed.

Anyways, DM worked without a hitch. I logged a trip to the store and got code 44: O2 lean. But it seems like the computer wants to keep adding fuel. It reeked of unburned fuel after letting it idle the other day. So I pulled out a couple of the plugs and they were wet with fuel. Could it be a bad O2? I pulled the vac reference off of the FPR and it didn't smell like gas, so I don't think the diaphagram is bad. Could be a stuck injector or a bad MAP? Good ways to isolate these problems? I should also note that it still has the stock vacuum lines and I have not checked to see if it has an aftermarket chip. Everything else is stock save wires and an aftermarket coil.

Also, I expected DM to show boost. Granted I drove it pretty easy because I want to figure out the problem before I even put much right foot into it. I also noticed the Wastegate duty cycle was 100% the whole time. Is this part of the ECM's 'limp' mode in order to mimize the chance of damage?
 
Re: ALDL connecting

Re: ALDL connecting

So I guess I drove very easy. Barely got 2 lbs of boost on the whole drive which was hard to find till I plotted it out.
Also, there was no knock on the drive. One instance at idle when it was warming up.
 

dalwine250

Donating Member
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

vac. leak,going lean.ecm is richening the mix to keep it from going too lean.i had this,ended up being an intake gasket on mine.
dave
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

Do you have any mods?

I imagine your o2 voltage is high at idle.

It should be switching back and forth between ~100-800mV, the most important thing is the cross counts steadily increase.

What is your Fuel pressure?
 
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

Well I got some time to try the "inner tube test" today. The intercooler to Throttle body ring is leaking. I tried a couple of different clamps and it still bleeds off the pressure with a nice hiss making it impossible to hear other leaks.
I did go through some of the vacuum lines since they are still stock. I didn't have any 6mm silicone sitting around so I took off a lot of the stock lines and added a little vacuum grease and some zip ties. First thing I tackled was the FPR and MAP and the T-fitting off the back of the mainifold. Also, found the line that goes to the vacuum ball to be in bad shape so I trimmed the ends and added some more vacuum grease.
I hooked up DM and and checked things out. Low and behold I got rid of code 44 so I took it out for a spin to see how it did. No knock when I got into it so I decided to stretch her legs a little. Went up to 15.0 lbs of boost with no knock, which surprised me given the leak between the intercooler and throttle body. Only had a little knock one time when I got into it quickly. Backed off and it didn't happen again.
The O2 mv still dips below 100 when cruising and at idle and the IAC counts were super low (~5) when I let it cool down. So I'm still not out of the woods yet.

And FYI, the truck is stock save aftermarket wires and a cheap performance muffler. Don't know the fuel pressure, need to get a gauge. I like the electric autometer I put in the Sonoma, but they are darn expensive.

So here are my questions now:
-Think I can drive it daily without much worry? Think it'll still drink the gas?
-I would like to play safe and don't like hitting 15.0 Lbs, even though I was at WOT. Should I adjust the wastegate rod a little to bleed off some more exhaust pressure?
-Where can I get some descent vacuum line? You guys say the stuff from autozone and Advance is crap. I also hear there was a GP on a whole silicone line replacement kit but haven't seen it since I have been on board. Do I have to get find some on the net?
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

I'm short on time but wanted to make sure you were aware you can double click on any of the 4 DataMaster items on the lower-right corner to change! I do it ALL the time..... This is my most common setup though:

12_8_pitbull1.png


Here's one more showing WBO2 AFR data:

koth2006run3_28stock_alkytune_dm_sm.png
 
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

Tooky said:
I'm short on time but wanted to make sure you were aware you can double click on any of the 4 DataMaster items on the lower-right corner to change! I do it ALL the time..... This is my most common setup though:

Thanks for that. I figured it the other day and couldn't remember how I did it!

Boost looks rock steady. But I have a question, should your boost have dropped there when the timing was pulled after you got on it? Since it doesn't, that means you have an external wastegate? Although it may just be that I can't see it.

Has anyone setup their aftermarket wastegate to open when the ECM detects knock? I have heard people talking about it, but never saw an answer.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: Running Rich getting code 44

Bad Ass Black Trucks said:
Boost looks rock steady. But I have a question, should your boost have dropped there when the timing was pulled after you got on it? Since it doesn't, that means you have an external wastegate? Although it may just be that I can't see it.

Has anyone setup their aftermarket wastegate to open when the ECM detects knock? I have heard people talking about it, but never saw an answer.
I assume you're talking about the top chart I posted, that was from 2002 when I had an ATR Pitbull chip. But it was a false knock on the 1-2 shift, you can tell by the way it spikes so big and drops right down just as fast. I do run a manual boost controller with the internal wastegate at any rate.

For vacuum line, every hardware/parts store seems to have slightly different sizes, and they are never all the rights ones for me. So I buy a little at every store until I've got an assortment for any situation.
 
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