Stereo Capacitor
- Thread starter thesyguy
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Captain Morgan
Moderated User
Re: Stereo Capacitor
what is your amp rated at and what is it used for? Subs? Components?
1 Farad caps have become "the standard" it seems now, I rearly even see 1/4 or 1/2 Farad caps for sale anymore. Odds are a 1-Farad cap would be more than sufficent for your setup.
There are a ton of different bands now, Lightning Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Boss Audio, Lanzar, Sound Stream, Phoenix Gold, ect ect... they have all dipped into the market, at least more than they were 5 years ago.
Im sure one may be more "bling" than the other, but they all generally do the same thing without much variation, especially not anything noticable for a non-competition stereo setup.
what is your amp rated at and what is it used for? Subs? Components?
1 Farad caps have become "the standard" it seems now, I rearly even see 1/4 or 1/2 Farad caps for sale anymore. Odds are a 1-Farad cap would be more than sufficent for your setup.
There are a ton of different bands now, Lightning Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Boss Audio, Lanzar, Sound Stream, Phoenix Gold, ect ect... they have all dipped into the market, at least more than they were 5 years ago.
Im sure one may be more "bling" than the other, but they all generally do the same thing without much variation, especially not anything noticable for a non-competition stereo setup.
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Stereo Capacitor
complete waste of money, spend the money on a better battery or larger alternator (idealy both) caps are a complete waste of money
complete waste of money, spend the money on a better battery or larger alternator (idealy both) caps are a complete waste of money
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
Re: Stereo Capacitor
every car Ive added a cap to has shown immediate difference and no more failed alternators.
I went through two AC Delco "Ice Berg" alternators on my GTP because there was no other option for a better alternator. After the 2nd failure, I replaced it with another AC Delco and added a 1 Farad cap, never had an alternator problem during the last 5 years of ownership.
High output alternators are great, however they usually arent higher output at idle, and it also doesnt prevent the voltage regulator from being hit by power surges when the subs hit. 99% of the time its not the alternator itself that fails, its the voltage regulator in the alternator, so high output or not, it will still fail.
sounds like you didnt have it hooked up correctly. how I dont know.jslezak83 said:
every car Ive added a cap to has shown immediate difference and no more failed alternators.
I went through two AC Delco "Ice Berg" alternators on my GTP because there was no other option for a better alternator. After the 2nd failure, I replaced it with another AC Delco and added a 1 Farad cap, never had an alternator problem during the last 5 years of ownership.
High output alternators are great, however they usually arent higher output at idle, and it also doesnt prevent the voltage regulator from being hit by power surges when the subs hit. 99% of the time its not the alternator itself that fails, its the voltage regulator in the alternator, so high output or not, it will still fail.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Stereo Capacitor
If the light are dimming, its because you have other issues. If the cap help that situation of dimming lights, it because its covering up the problem. Caps can help reinforce bass notes (its not going to be a huge difference) and they also provide filtering (may not be noticable in a ccar audio). I run a 1 Farad cap in my Sy, its more of luxury than a neccessity.
If the light are dimming, its because you have other issues. If the cap help that situation of dimming lights, it because its covering up the problem. Caps can help reinforce bass notes (its not going to be a huge difference) and they also provide filtering (may not be noticable in a ccar audio). I run a 1 Farad cap in my Sy, its more of luxury than a neccessity.
akryder86
Spinning Aint' Winning
Re: Stereo Capacitor
x5 in buy a better battery or a ho alternator. If you feel compelled to buy one charge it before installing or it WON'T make a difference. I put one in my Subaru Impreza when it had 2 12" sony xplod subs after I installed an Optima Yellow top because the subs were still drawing to many amps. I saw the difference it makes and personally think that they should be a last resort.
Montana
x5 in buy a better battery or a ho alternator. If you feel compelled to buy one charge it before installing or it WON'T make a difference. I put one in my Subaru Impreza when it had 2 12" sony xplod subs after I installed an Optima Yellow top because the subs were still drawing to many amps. I saw the difference it makes and personally think that they should be a last resort.
Montana
bizkit
bonofied SyTy junkie
Re: Stereo Capacitor
A capacitor will help your electrical system supply your amp with a smoother source of energy and that's the bottom line. They DO work. 90% of it is how it is installed. Proper gauge wire is a given, you can't go too big. The cap needs to be installed as close to the amp as possible, less than 1 foot of wire between cap and amp is ideal. A low resistance battery (spiral cell) works almost as well as a cap but must be installed as close to the amp as possible to be effective. The cap will react to changes in voltage quicker but the battery is obviously a larger supply of energy. Of course all that energy comes from somewhere so you need an alternator to supply that battery and cap with enough energy to stay charged and reduce extreme voltage drop. Every aspect of the system, alternator post to amp set screw is important we're only talking about 12 - 14 volts here guys it doesn't take much resistance to screw it up.
A capacitor will help your electrical system supply your amp with a smoother source of energy and that's the bottom line. They DO work. 90% of it is how it is installed. Proper gauge wire is a given, you can't go too big. The cap needs to be installed as close to the amp as possible, less than 1 foot of wire between cap and amp is ideal. A low resistance battery (spiral cell) works almost as well as a cap but must be installed as close to the amp as possible to be effective. The cap will react to changes in voltage quicker but the battery is obviously a larger supply of energy. Of course all that energy comes from somewhere so you need an alternator to supply that battery and cap with enough energy to stay charged and reduce extreme voltage drop. Every aspect of the system, alternator post to amp set screw is important we're only talking about 12 - 14 volts here guys it doesn't take much resistance to screw it up.
vinnieTy
TY # 1889
Re: Stereo Capacitor
I think im in the same boat. I have a system in my truck and lately i have noticed the lights go dim on bass and the idle fluctuate alot. I also notice the power surges ever once and a while. I was going to get the alternator rebuilt by a guy by me that can build it stronger and replace the battery with a yellow top. Isnt the voltage regulator in the alternators?
I think im in the same boat. I have a system in my truck and lately i have noticed the lights go dim on bass and the idle fluctuate alot. I also notice the power surges ever once and a while. I was going to get the alternator rebuilt by a guy by me that can build it stronger and replace the battery with a yellow top. Isnt the voltage regulator in the alternators?
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Stereo Capacitor
What he said!
I have used caps on all my builds... the best one I have used is the Alumapro 15 farad call "The C.A.P." I used to use three batterys in my biggest competition build. I got rid of two of them and used the big cap. I also used a 200amp alternator with a variable regulator that could be set from 10 to 15 volts. I set mine at 14.2 volts which was just under the max allow by IASCA at 14.4. Any thing over 14.4 was a DQ. I run this variable adjustable regulators on my Tys and keep the voltage at a steady 14 volts. I helps the fuel pump, injectors, etc as well as all the electronics when the voltage is high andd steady. Our fuel pumps put out a higher steady volume at 14 volts the 12.8. An unsteady or low voltage plays havoc on our tuning.
Don't do the yellow tops. We sold tons of yellow tops when I had my stereo store. The problem is that although they have a better reserve and a better deep cycle life, the warranty was only for a year vs the red tops at seven years. Unless you are going to sit and run your stereo for long periods while your truck is not charging, you don't need a deep cycle. Also, you should not be running your stereo components at the low voltage ranges anyway as it's hard on them. We used the yellow tops in competition, because we had a part of our judging with the cars not running, thus as the batteries drained, the yellow tops could be "Hot" charged back faster from a low voltage. If you did that to the red tops, they couldn't take the hot charge and cook themselves.
Deep cycle recharging is even hard on deep cycle batteries, thus the short warranty period. Buy the red tops. Keep them charged and enjoy a long term warranty.
For all of us that leave our trucks set for long periods of time. Put a trickle charger on your batteries and kep them up. A good way to weaken and/or kill a battery is to let it discharge and then quick charge it. A slow charge is the best way to bring a battery back from a low voltage, discharged. Putting on a set of jumpers to start your truck and letting your alternator recharge is an emergency only solution, as even small amp alternators are putting out a high enough amp "hot" charge thats hurts a discharged battery.
John
bizkit said:
What he said!
I have used caps on all my builds... the best one I have used is the Alumapro 15 farad call "The C.A.P." I used to use three batterys in my biggest competition build. I got rid of two of them and used the big cap. I also used a 200amp alternator with a variable regulator that could be set from 10 to 15 volts. I set mine at 14.2 volts which was just under the max allow by IASCA at 14.4. Any thing over 14.4 was a DQ. I run this variable adjustable regulators on my Tys and keep the voltage at a steady 14 volts. I helps the fuel pump, injectors, etc as well as all the electronics when the voltage is high andd steady. Our fuel pumps put out a higher steady volume at 14 volts the 12.8. An unsteady or low voltage plays havoc on our tuning.
Don't do the yellow tops. We sold tons of yellow tops when I had my stereo store. The problem is that although they have a better reserve and a better deep cycle life, the warranty was only for a year vs the red tops at seven years. Unless you are going to sit and run your stereo for long periods while your truck is not charging, you don't need a deep cycle. Also, you should not be running your stereo components at the low voltage ranges anyway as it's hard on them. We used the yellow tops in competition, because we had a part of our judging with the cars not running, thus as the batteries drained, the yellow tops could be "Hot" charged back faster from a low voltage. If you did that to the red tops, they couldn't take the hot charge and cook themselves.
Deep cycle recharging is even hard on deep cycle batteries, thus the short warranty period. Buy the red tops. Keep them charged and enjoy a long term warranty.
For all of us that leave our trucks set for long periods of time. Put a trickle charger on your batteries and kep them up. A good way to weaken and/or kill a battery is to let it discharge and then quick charge it. A slow charge is the best way to bring a battery back from a low voltage, discharged. Putting on a set of jumpers to start your truck and letting your alternator recharge is an emergency only solution, as even small amp alternators are putting out a high enough amp "hot" charge thats hurts a discharged battery.
John
the baPhoon
Active member
Re: Stereo Capacitor
Ive been building and maintaining show winning systems for a while now. Recently i made a switch from caps to bats and big alternators.. and i couldnt be happier. My last build was a 160 amp draw on a 150 amp alt with a 5 farad cap. I fried both the battery and the alt within a year of completing the build. I was pushing 2, 2000 watt eclipse amps, a 400 mid and a stinger chrome 5 farad cap. My volts would constantly drop below 10v. My new build utilizes 3 exide purple haze orbital deep cycles and a NASA built 220 amp alt. This pushes to 2000 watt RMS mono blocks, 1 600x4 mid amp, and a 8v preout eclipse deck. I cant for the life of me get my system to drop below 12.6.
Ive also heard somewhere about capacitors somehow degrading SPL... dont ask me what i heard cause i cant remember exactly. heh. It really all depends on how much power youre pulling from your system. If youre running like a 400 watt amp for some subs a 1 farad should suit you perfectly. If you get into the multiple thousand watt range i suggest more batteries and a big alt. Just my 2 cents
Ive been building and maintaining show winning systems for a while now. Recently i made a switch from caps to bats and big alternators.. and i couldnt be happier. My last build was a 160 amp draw on a 150 amp alt with a 5 farad cap. I fried both the battery and the alt within a year of completing the build. I was pushing 2, 2000 watt eclipse amps, a 400 mid and a stinger chrome 5 farad cap. My volts would constantly drop below 10v. My new build utilizes 3 exide purple haze orbital deep cycles and a NASA built 220 amp alt. This pushes to 2000 watt RMS mono blocks, 1 600x4 mid amp, and a 8v preout eclipse deck. I cant for the life of me get my system to drop below 12.6.
Ive also heard somewhere about capacitors somehow degrading SPL... dont ask me what i heard cause i cant remember exactly. heh. It really all depends on how much power youre pulling from your system. If youre running like a 400 watt amp for some subs a 1 farad should suit you perfectly. If you get into the multiple thousand watt range i suggest more batteries and a big alt. Just my 2 cents
James Thomas
"NO CLASS"
Re: Stereo Capacitor
John, could you give me some info on these variable regulators? Are they internal with an external adjustment (can be fitted to any alt.?) or a external mount / special alt. etc.? BTW, what do you think of the Stinger 30 & 35 farad hybrid caps? I have used several and had good results short term but the customers "went away / moved / sold the car" and I lost track of them after 6mo. or so. I am thinking of using one for the Ty.... any thoughts?
Thanks!
________
James
Windedv6 said:
John, could you give me some info on these variable regulators? Are they internal with an external adjustment (can be fitted to any alt.?) or a external mount / special alt. etc.? BTW, what do you think of the Stinger 30 & 35 farad hybrid caps? I have used several and had good results short term but the customers "went away / moved / sold the car" and I lost track of them after 6mo. or so. I am thinking of using one for the Ty.... any thoughts?
Thanks!
________
James
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Stereo Capacitor
I have used these on my AWD Ty since 1997 and just had a spare alternator built like this for for my Ty II a couple of weeks ago. The internal regulator is taken out and the adjustable external regulator plugs into the original terminal. The adjustable regulator has a pod switch to change the voltage output. No special alternator. I use the stock alternator and have it rebuilt to a 140 amp and have these external regulators put on. On my AWD Ty I was competing in a 600+ watt class and used a big case 200 amp alternator with the same external regulator.
John
James Thomas said:
I have used these on my AWD Ty since 1997 and just had a spare alternator built like this for for my Ty II a couple of weeks ago. The internal regulator is taken out and the adjustable external regulator plugs into the original terminal. The adjustable regulator has a pod switch to change the voltage output. No special alternator. I use the stock alternator and have it rebuilt to a 140 amp and have these external regulators put on. On my AWD Ty I was competing in a 600+ watt class and used a big case 200 amp alternator with the same external regulator.
John
Last edited:
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Stereo Capacitor
I am out of the loop on the audio stuff. I gave up the audio competition thing several years ago and decided to go fast instead. I am not sure which takes more time, effort and $$. I sold some of my competition componets to Pete "Epic" which included a Alumapro 15 farad cap. I know they make thier own and for others, I don't know how makes the one for Stinger.
John
James Thomas said:
I am out of the loop on the audio stuff. I gave up the audio competition thing several years ago and decided to go fast instead. I am not sure which takes more time, effort and $$. I sold some of my competition componets to Pete "Epic" which included a Alumapro 15 farad cap. I know they make thier own and for others, I don't know how makes the one for Stinger.
John
James Thomas
"NO CLASS"
Re: Stereo Capacitor
Thanks for the info John :tup: . Where do you get these regulators? Can you tell me who to contact as I don't have any good shops out here at all. What do they cost? I can prolly do the install my self or could send my 180 amp alt., either way if you can hook me up with your source that would be great!
Thanks!
________
James
Windedv6 said:
Thanks for the info John :tup: . Where do you get these regulators? Can you tell me who to contact as I don't have any good shops out here at all. What do they cost? I can prolly do the install my self or could send my 180 amp alt., either way if you can hook me up with your source that would be great!
Thanks!
________
James