Sy engine parts

[Syclonewillie]

I am looking to rebuild my engine and I have looked for some parts. I really need to know where is the best place to get a crankshaft.Also I need to know what is interchangeable with the 350. What pistons are every going with. I am going to try and built it stock like.

I do not want to be flamed I am going to try this but not on engine that is in truck. I found a 4.3 and am going to try on that one.
This will be first attempt at building a motor. so what all will I need to know. Any helpful tips will be appreciated.
TIA
Willie

 

[Guest]

this might help i hope.. It worked for me

pistons... TRW L2441 .30
rods..... Eagles H beam CRS5700s6
Crankshaft.. nitrite,chamfer and micropolish
piston rings... Total Seal 909003001-08
timing chain... cloyes true roller clo-9-3145
heads.... get vortecs(year 95)and port them 2.02 1.6
head gaskets.... original GM is the best
rockers.... comp cam 1.6 ratio roller tips
that are self aligning and get
rid of your guide plates.
Camshaft... comp cams 09-422-8
push rods.... crane cams 5/16 7.195 stud the heads.... ARP-233-4401

this was my built and the motor runs great.. if you are gonna run some serious HP then you should get a set of billet 4 bolt main caps from GM dealer (regular 350)and have your block machined for them.. If I were you, Id get myself a DFI system and have it tuned by someone that has done it before..if you need anything else let me know

 

[smeagol]

Couple points.

heads.... get vortecs(year 95)and port them 2.02 1.6

95 heads would be L35 heads. The Vortec nomenclature that GM chose to put on EVERYTHING is frickin' annoying. Anyways, the heads that people refer to as Vortec are really referring to the 96& newer LF6 motor (X engine) heads. No EGR, 100% better head all around over the stockers or L35s. They are the ones that are a PITA to bolt up to the Syty intake. IMHO, it is WELL worth it to make these heads work. Easy performance, much less prone to detonate.

if you are gonna run some serious HP then you should get a set of billet 4 bolt main caps from GM dealer (regular 350)and have your block machined for them

I recommend that for even the mild motors. I had one builder tell me that he has taken apart a stock Syty 4.3 and one of the caps came off in 2 pieces. That was a truck whose motor still RAN when they pulled it. If you don't do 4 bolts, do at least steel 2 bolts I say. I know some people are running fast on 2 bolts, but after talking to many builders, that is one common upgrade all would do.

 

[myclone]

On 2001-12-25 00:41, typhoon4ever wrote:
this might help i hope.. It worked for me

pistons... TRW L2441 .30
rods..... Eagles H beam CRS5700s6

Crankshaft.. nitrite,chamfer and micropolish

Nitrite is prolly over kill for this build up but is nice if you got the bucks to spend.

piston rings... Total Seal 909003001-08
timing chain... cloyes true roller clo-9-3145
heads.... get vortecs(year 95)and port them 2.02 1.6
head gaskets.... original GM is the best
rockers.... comp cam 1.6 ratio roller tips
that are self aligning and get
rid of your guide plates.
Camshaft... comp cams 09-422-8
push rods.... crane cams 5/16 7.195 stud the heads.... ARP-233-4401

Only thing Id not agree with is studding the heads. IMO not on a street motor that you cant pull the heads with the eng installed in the car. With the 5 bolts per cyl, lifting a head is prolly not gonna happen at the power level that will be ran. I know it happens but its rare (unless youre doin things with N20 or WAY high cyl press).

Just use ARP bolts and you should be fine for all but the most extreme situation.

this was my built and the motor runs great.. if you are gonna run some serious HP then you should get a set of billet 4 bolt main caps from GM dealer (regular 350)and have your block machined for them.. If I were you, Id get myself a DFI system and have it tuned by someone that has done it before..if you need anything else let me know

 

[turbosonoma]

What gets in the way when you try to remove heads in the truck with studs? I am going to use head studs but i dont have a/c or any of that useless stuff so... Will i be fine if i need to do head gaskets in the truck or will i still have to pull the motor?

Brad
92synoma

 

[V]

Can't speak from experience on the SyTys, but on other cars the brake vacuum booster gets in the way.

 

[Syclonewillie]

I am getting a 96 4.3 vortec motor can I use it block and all to do the build up. I am asking because it is free. thanks for all the advice. Myclone I will be emailing you to ask some quetions since you are closest to me. you might be able to help me a little bit.
Oh yea merry christmas to all.

 

[Zac]

I don't have any experience with this, but doesn't the 96 4.3L have a balance shaft? Can the balance shaft be removed? Can you run with a balance shaft? Does the balance shaft even make a difference, or am I just an idiot? :smile:

zac

 

[jwaller]

On 2001-12-25 11:39, myclone wrote:

On 2001-12-25 00:41, typhoon4ever wrote:
this might help i hope.. It worked for me

pistons... TRW L2441 .30
rods..... Eagles H beam CRS5700s6

Crankshaft.. nitrite,chamfer and micropolish

Nitrite is prolly over kill for this build up but is nice if you got the bucks to spend.

piston rings... Total Seal 909003001-08
timing chain... cloyes true roller clo-9-3145
heads.... get vortecs(year 95)and port them 2.02 1.6
head gaskets.... original GM is the best
rockers.... comp cam 1.6 ratio roller tips
that are self aligning and get
rid of your guide plates.
Camshaft... comp cams 09-422-8
push rods.... crane cams 5/16 7.195 stud the heads.... ARP-233-4401

Only thing Id not agree with is studding the heads. IMO not on a street motor that you cant pull the heads with the eng installed in the car. With the 5 bolts per cyl, lifting a head is prolly not gonna happen at the power level that will be ran. I know it happens but its rare (unless youre doin things with N20 or WAY high cyl press).

Just use ARP bolts and you should be fine for all but the most extreme situation.

this was my built and the motor runs great.. if you are gonna run some serious HP then you should get a set of billet 4 bolt main caps from GM dealer (regular 350)and have your block machined for them.. If I were you, Id get myself a DFI system and have it tuned by someone that has done it before..if you need anything else let me know

he said extreme.....hahahah.....anyway I used the studs on my sy....and am about to try them on the ty...but I think myclone is right I doubt I'll be able to R&R the head with studs.

 

[jwaller]

96 has the bal shaft...and I used a bal shaft motor in my sy....sucker idles like a dream...but I'm sure it saps some HP to turn that thing, it is reciprocating mass..

 

[Syclonewillie]

So who has adapted the intake to work on the x engine heads? How much trouble was it. What is the part number for the crank you used JWALLER? i will need to get that one, correct. Is there anywhere to look to get this info. I would appreiciate any help.

 

[93ty475]

wow...you search for "rod" and "press" and look what comes up...something i needed to read a week ago and its from christmas 2001...search must be working awesome now...... :drinking:

 

[ed hess]

i recall someone saying that head studs have allen hex or regular hex on the ends so you can remove the studs if you have to pull a head while the motor is in the truck. arp makes these studs (who else!)

ed

 

[dourtyb]

Anyone got the part number for the ARP head bolt set for our trucks? What about the intake manifold bolts. Guess I should replace them while I'm at it. Maybe just a new set from GM for the intake?