Thermostat

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
I am going to replace my thermostat and from the documents that i have the correct ones i should look for are:

Hypertech #HYP-4000
Jet stainless 180° #10170
Mr. Gasket 160° #4363
Robertshaw 160° 330-160
Robertshaw 180° 330-180

I plan on using the 160 degree one. I have never heard of robert shaw thermostats so i dont plan on using them but from the others which one would be better. I prefer to get one local at auto zone or advance auto this way i can get it done quicker and not pay the extra handling and shipping fees. Of course the list above was from an old document i had so i might not go with any of them. For the guys that chamged them out which ones did you use?

Thanks



EDIT: Disregard i found one by DURALAST at a local autozone.

thanks
 

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Re: Thermostat

is there really any noticeable difference between the 160 and the 180? ...other than the obvious 20*?

I guess what I'm asking is, is one better than the other for a certain application? If not, then why would anyone use the 180?
 

Richard Le

New member
Re: Thermostat

Go with RobertShaw. It's a high quality unit. I ran with a 160°F for a while but switched to a 180°F since my truck seems to like it better.
 

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
Re: Thermostat

Thanks everyoone for the replies but i went ahead with the duralast 160 degree from autozone. I ended up cleaning and buffing the radiator hose goose neck (i think thats what its called) where the hose connects to the motor from the radiator.
Picture003-4.jpg
 

88GTZ

Donating Member
Re: Thermostat

I've heard our trucks like 180, mine had a 160 I swapped for a 180 I haven't seen a difference though.
 

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Re: Thermostat

I remember reading some BS a long time ago saying that sometimes with the 160 the computer can think the engine is still trying to "warm up" and will throw more fuel at the motor... causing it to run rich and bog at WOT?? I never saw a rebuttal to that comment, but is it even possible for our computer to do that??
 

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
Re: Thermostat

I remember reading some BS a long time ago saying that sometimes with the 160 the computer can think the engine is still trying to "warm up" and will throw more fuel at the motor... causing it to run rich and bog at WOT?? I never saw a rebuttal to that comment, but is it even possible for our computer to do that??
If we are comparing a 160 degree to a 195 degree maybe it will matter but i always had 160 since i bought my truck and i never can say i had issues related to being to cold. I also added a bottle of water wetter.

http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10
 

warmpancakes

New member
Re: Thermostat

when I had 160 ibn the truck the converter would lock unlock oddly seems right around that temp is the lock point
 

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
Re: Thermostat

Well with no luck the truck is running hotter then normal. I ran datmaster and the truck is at 203degrees when i compare to older datamaster logs from a week ago its steady at 185. What the hell can it be? Is 203 normal? It never ran that hot in the 4 years ive owned it. I came back from a drive and i couldnt even check the oil the dipstick was burning. Any ideas?? . Its funny when i start the truck when cold i can hear the fan yelling after 5 minutes of idle it sounds like it turns off. I put a newspaper towards the fan and it did stop the first time when warm but when i got back from the drive and it was running at 203 degrees the fan was running but not as powerful as when i first start it. :rant:Its a new fan clutch about a year old.

My wife just got home and noticed a big amount of heat in the garage that we never had before so someting is not right.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Thermostat

First, how do you know it's at 200*? I wouldn't trust the stock gauge. I have a 160* in my truck and the stock gauge never gets close to that number.

With all due respect, you did put the t-stat in correct side up right? After that look for plugged radiator core. clogged AC condenser cutting air flow. Incorrect water pump, RH instead of LH rotation. collapsed lower rad hose. Only sure test is to remove and inspect.

What are your temps while just cruising at, say, 55 mph? AC on or off? Will it stay cool idling with the hood open and AC off? Some times these issues are related to hot air recirculating back to the front of the rad.

HTH a bit.
 

vinnieTy

TY # 1889
Re: Thermostat

besides the t stat what have you changed lately?
I installed an egr delete, 3 bar map, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge and a tweak chip. I have driven it multiple times when i get home from work on a few runs to get datamaster logs for eric at turbo tweak. I did all this about a month ago and never had any issues. Drove on parkway for 30 minutes to go see my brother and back home with out any problem. I did not beat on it the runs were more for idle and normal driving. If i got into 10 pounds of boost that was a lot.

I noticed the temp hit high on saturday when i was driving home from a meet. I was cruising about 75 mph on the parkway with A/C OFF. I had to pass someone and pushed it a little bit and got up to about 85mph. When i looked down at speedo was when i saw the temp gauge a little bit higher then half. My temp gauge since i have owned the truck has never left the line before half. I actually posted a thread showing how my truck runs cool a few months back. Last year i installed a heavy duty fan clutch, radiator flush, new hoses, new vac lines. . I really take care of my truck. Sometimes i think i go overboard.
Now yes the outside temp that day of the meet was hot almost 100 degrees but at that time driving home it was in the 90's. When i was driving to the meet i had A/C on just about the whole three hour drive and the temp gauge was fine just a little bit higher then normal but nothing to worry about and the a/c was cold.

First, how do you know it's at 200*? I wouldn't trust the stock gauge. I have a 160* in my truck and the stock gauge never gets close to that number.

With all due respect, you did put the t-stat in correct side up right? After that look for plugged radiator core. clogged AC condenser cutting air flow. Incorrect water pump, RH instead of LH rotation. collapsed lower rad hose. Only sure test is to remove and inspect.

What are your temps while just cruising at, say, 55 mph? AC on or off? Will it stay cool idling with the hood open and AC off? Some times these issues are related to hot air recirculating back to the front of the rad.

HTH a bit.
Don yes i did install the thermo correctly. The way the old one came off was the way the new one went in. How i knew about the actual temp was from datamaster. I had the laptop on my passenger seat. The temp went down to 190 when i was driving so thats why im thinking it might be the fan clutch. When i start the truck and its cold that fan clutch is loud and you can see it moving fast. About 5 minutes later it slows down that i can stop it by using a newspaper. After 20-30 minutes at idle and the temps are getting up there the fan will not stop it shreads the newspaper but its not moving fast like when i first start the truck when its cold. Weird...The truck can stay there idleing with a/c on or off and not over heat but get past half in the 205 degree temp which like i said my truck never ran that hot.

Put it this way there has never been a time that i have driven the truck and wasnt able to pop the hood and check the oil as soon as i get back from the drive. I came back from the drive this time and i went to check the oil and i burnt my hand. I dropped the dipstick. Thats hot.

I appreciate all t he help!!!:roll:
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Thermostat

In my experience thermo fans will make a lot of noise when cold. I have never attempted to stop them with a newspaper or anything else. Never heard of that.

What you might do next is to pull the stat and rig up a holder out of wire. Get a cooking thermometer and a pot of water and actually test your stat. IMHO you should see it begin to open at its rated temp and noticeably wide open 10-15 degrees above that. As I think about it if you had it in backwards you'd see wide fluctuations in temp not a steady overheat condition.

I suspect you are probably on the right track with the fan clutch. As I recall there is a standard and heavy duty.
 
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