Tune up: 1st

[Scubanme]

I just purchased NGK UR-5 plugs, Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires, Delco Dist. cap and rotor. Delco oil filter for oil change.
I looked tried looking at the plugs, but they are very hard to see. I guess that this is going to be one of those jobs where I will learn mre about the car than I really wanted to....LOL!
Looks like I have to go from underneath or from the fenderwells. Anybody with any tips?

Thanks :rotf:

 

[nonova0074]

Re: Tune up: 1st

take off the wheels and go in from the inner fenders should take 30mins max

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: Tune up: 1st

I don't remove the wheels but it does add more room. I just jack up the truck and go through the fender well. There should be enough fender/tire gap to get in there. You will need a long extension and swivel joints to make it easier.

 

[TNPhoon]

Re: Tune up: 1st

I don't remove the wheels but it does add more room. I just jack up the truck and go through the fender well. There should be enough fender/tire gap to get in there. You will need a long extension and swivel joints to make it easier.

Was about to write the EXACT same thing.

Last night with Morgans comment, tonight with this. Are you my soulmate?

Changing the plugs is no where near as difficult as it's been made out to be.

 

[nonova0074]

Re: Tune up: 1st

i just take the wheels off, i'm sitting low in the front

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: Tune up: 1st

i just take the wheels off, i'm sitting low in the front

That's doesn't change the distance between the tire and fender well when you jack it up :lol:
Its definitely easier to get up into the fenderwell with the wheels removed but you add the the extra step of wheel removal. But hey... -I'm 150lbs so my skinny ass squeezes in there no problem. :tup:

 

[BoostedSUV]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Was about to write the EXACT same thing.

Last night with Morgans comment, tonight with this. Are you my soulmate?

Changing the plugs is no where near as difficult as it's been made out to be.

:rotf: only difference is I beat you to it this time lol :tup:

 

[Scubanme]

Re: Tune up: 1st

take off the wheels and go in from the inner fenders should take 30mins max

I am going to jack it up and put it on stands and remove the wheels since this is my first time working on this truck.

I don't remove the wheels but it does add more room. I just jack up the truck and go through the fender well. There should be enough fender/tire gap to get in there. You will need a long extension and swivel joints to make it easier.

Thanks for the tips on the extension and swivel.

Was about to write the EXACT same thing.

Last night with Morgans comment, tonight with this. Are you my soulmate?

Changing the plugs is no where near as difficult as it's been made out to be.

i just take the wheels off, i'm sitting low in the front

I Have to take off the wheels because I will change the oil while I'm under there.

That's doesn't change the distance between the tire and fender well when you jack it up :lol:
Its definitely easier to get up into the fenderwell with the wheels removed but you add the the extra step of wheel removal. But hey... -I'm 150lbs so my skinny ass squeezes in there no problem. :tup:

Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it.
:tup:

 

[Don W.]

Re: Tune up: 1st

If it's not to late find and purchase the Taylor plug wire puller. You don't want to be pulling on the wires. But you bought new ones so I guess it doesn't matter. Also put a little never-seize on the threads and a little dielectric grease on the tip. Makes things much easier nest time.

From Wikipedia:

Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. As such, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. Thus electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. Dielectric grease is, however, often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector. The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the non-conductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector.

 

[Scubanme]

Re: Tune up: 1st

If it's not to late find and purchase the Taylor plug wire puller. You don't want to be pulling on the wires. But you bought new ones so I guess it doesn't matter. Also put a little never-seize on the threads and a little dielectric grease on the tip. Makes things much easier nest time.

From Wikipedia:

Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. As such, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. Thus electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. Dielectric grease is, however, often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector. The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the non-conductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector.

Thanks for the reply, I have several small tubes of dielectric grease that is translucent in color, I use it on all my electrical plugs. I ride dirt bikes and street bikes so I've been using that stuff for years. Thanks for the tip and taking the time to respond.
:tup:

 

[Scubanme]

Re: Tune up: 1st

If it's not to late find and purchase the Taylor plug wire puller. You don't want to be pulling on the wires.

I just changed the oil today and that was so easy. Later I looked at the plug wires and oh my goodness, I can see what you meant about getting a plug wire puller! Good advice before I even try to tackle the job.

Thanks

 

[cloneman315]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Wheels do not need to come off,also jacking it up will free up some distance between the fender and tire.once you do it a few times you can get them done in15 min,be careful you don't crack number3 plug

 

[gkrcr882]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Steering shaft makes #3 kinda tight, and the shape of the passenger side manifold leaves little clearance in the front. Be sure to draw a diagram with the cap and firing order on it. Helpful hint for the oil change is to put rags down in the fender to catch the oil that inevitably gets everywhere. When I did mine I removed the front wheels for clearance, good excuse to check the brakes and front end parts.

 

[Scubanme]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Wheels do not need to come off,also jacking it up will free up some distance between the fender and tire.once you do it a few times you can get them done in15 min,be careful you don't crack number3 plug

You are right, jacking up the car gives alot more room, I'm waiting on the wire puller.

Steering shaft makes #3 kinda tight, and the shape of the passenger side manifold leaves little clearance in the front. Be sure to draw a diagram with the cap and firing order on it. Helpful hint for the oil change is to put rags down in the fender to catch the oil that inevitably gets everywhere. When I did mine I removed the front wheels for clearance, good excuse to check the brakes and front end parts.

Thanks for the handy tips, sometimes we tend to just start ripping wires out without thinking about it. I usually try to take a picture first, that's what we do at work. I already did the oil change and I did not put down rags and spilled onlu about 2 drops, the next time I will put down rags cuz I may not be so lucky.


Thanks for the hepful hints everybody!

 

[Beavis]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Get the Craftsman spark plug socket with the swivel built in (one piece unit). That will do all the plugs nice and smooth. Even a beginner should be able to do the whole tune up in about 2 hours. Don't forget about the cap and rotor.

 

[SY2455]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Get the Craftsman spark plug socket with the swivel built in (one piece unit). That will do all the plugs nice and smooth. Even a beginner should be able to do the whole tune up in about 2 hours. Don't forget about the cap and rotor.

Add to this the 24" extension and with them you can go though the wheel well without taking the tire off.:tup: That is the way that I have been doing the plugs for years. Gap the plugs at .028 for the best results.:tup:

 

[Scubanme]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Add to this the 24" extension and with them you can go though the wheel well without taking the tire off.:tup: That is the way that I have been doing the plugs for years. Gap the plugs at .028 for the best results.:tup:

Thanks, I just bought the socket and now I'm waiting on the wire puller to come in.

 

[SY2455]

Re: Tune up: 1st

Thanks, I just bought the socket and now I'm waiting on the wire puller to come in.

For the wire puller I took a old sparkplug and made 1 out of 1/8" rod 24" long. On 1 end using the sparkplug as a guide. I made a tight 1/2 circle to fit tight on the sparkplug. At the end of the circle I made a 90* bend so the puller is now going toward the wheel well. At the other end I made a 90* bend to function as a handle for pulling.

To use the tool you would go in on top of the sparkplug to the end of the sparkwire boot. Keeping a slight down force to seat the homemade puller on the sparkplug, then put tension on the end of the sparkplug boot, a gentle pull is all that is needed to remove the sparkplug wire from the plug.

After making the bends that I needed the overall length is about 18". This tool has work great over the years and I have never pulled a plugwire apart using it.

On a side note, the spark plug wire with tightest grip that I have found has been the MSD brand, but they stop making them for our trucks:rant:. The reason I made the tool out of 1/8" rod 24" long is That is what I had at the time and about the length, well I like getting away from my work if possible :tup:.