Two timing marks on the balancer...

[CavScout]

Still trying to get her to run. We were moving the distributor and notice that there are two timing marks on the balancer.
I don't remember which was the right one, and cannot figure out why there would be two in the first place.

I am so screwed. Anybody else know the answer?

 

[kwick6]

with a piston stop...

you turn the crank until #1 cyl comes up and hits the stop..make mark

then you turn it in the other direction till it hits the stop..make mark

the point in the center of those marks is TDC.

 

[CavScout]

Can do/will do first thing in the morning.

But, nobody knows why I have two marks on the balancer?

 

[kwick6]

with a piston stop...

you turn the crank until #1 cyl comes up and hits the stop..make mark#1

then you turn it in the other direction till it hits the stop..make mark#2

the point in the center of those marks is TDC.

 

[jwaller]

Can do/will do first thing in the morning.

But, nobody knows why I have two marks on the balancer?

I have a feeling that the second mark is 180deg off from tdc of #1...but I wish it only had 1 mark....

 

[MikeRenz]

i was told the second mark is for the vans becuase you can't see the thing from up top. They have a timing tooth mounted on the bottom of the timing cover also. Just paint the mark you use white or yellow or something bright. You'll never notice the other hash.....you shouldn't see the other hash at all or you're way off.

btw...the top mark is 10 degrees off of the key of the crank.

 

[AUSyTyIN]

i was told the second mark is for the vans becuase you can't see the thing from up top. They have a timing tooth mounted on the bottom of the timing cover also. Just paint the mark you use white or yellow or something bright. You'll never notice the other hash.....you shouldn't see the other hash at all or you're way off.

btw...the top mark is 10 degrees off of the key of the crank.

white out works perfect 8)

 

[CavScout]

It almost has to be for vans. We used the second mark and reset the distributor. The first mark is very visible from the lower drivers side, while underneath the truck.

That fixed the whole dern thing, cranks over like the chump I am. I'll finish timing her up, check valve lash, get a tag and insurance tomorrow.

Back on the road by close of buisiness Thursday.

BTW, we used a soap marker to identify the right one.

Many, many thanks go to those who have put up w/ some pretty dumb Q's out of me during this rebuild. I am absolutely sure there will be more in the future.

 

[Don W.]

That fixed the whole dern thing, cranks over like the chump I am. I'll finish timing her up, check valve lash, get a tag and insurance tomorrow.

I haven't followed this thread that much but I hope them are solid lifters yur checkin' with the cyl to be checked on TDC compression stroke. Or did I miss somthin' along the way.

Don

 

[CavScout]

No, we're re-checking lash because of a ticking noise, heard on initial start-up. Just a precaution. If it doesn't tick tomorrow, then we won't.

I ain't a pro engine builder, just a nervous idiot that really wants to do this right (the first time). Got some advice?

 

[Methuselah]

If I remember correctly, as you face the engine compartment from the front of the vehicle with the two timing marks on top of the balancer, the timing mark towards the left (passenger side) is TDC (top dead center). The other mark (driver side) is 15* BTDC (before top dead center).
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Honda RC211V history

 

[Don W.]

No, we're re-checking lash because of a ticking noise, heard on initial start-up. Just a precaution. If it doesn't tick tomorrow, then we won't.

I ain't a pro engine builder, just a nervous idiot that really wants to do this right (the first time). Got some advice?

Lash and hydraulic lifter “preload” are two different things. However they are both set with the cyl being adjusted at TDC compression stroke. Do not attempt adjustment with the cyl at TDC between the exhaust stroke and the intake stroke which is exactly 360 deg. from TDC compression so be careful. At this point both valves are open slightly (commonly called overlap) and any attempt at adjustment will be in error. The timing mark will show TDC both times, BTW.

Once you have arrived at TDC compression on number one cyl you can do all remaining cyls with only two more revolutions of the crank. Just do them in firing order.

There's a lot of discussion on the board 'bout "ticks" so I won't elaborate here.

Confusing? Probably, It’s much easier to demonstrate that to describe in words. :-?

Don

 

[Methuselah]

I was wrong, I thought the timing marks were much closer to each other. As shown in the picture below, I believe the second timing mark is at 90 degrees before top dead center. I arrived at this figure by measuring the total circumference of the stock balancer (~19.375in) and the length of the arc between the two timing marks (~4.75in), given a little mismeasurement, that puts the separation at 90*.

Anyhow, I dont know what the significance of 90* BTDC is, and I cant make an educated guess until the valvetrain is in. But this is all moot for valve lash adjustment anyhow.

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INTERRACIAL BLONDE