vortec heads
- Thread starter sean
- Start date
midnightbluS10
Banned
VermontTy said:
or look down about 3 posts at
"Vortec Head Casting Numbers"
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Vortecs
Vortecs
96 + are the good ones but U'll have to go to John Waller, RPM or McCoy, etc. to do the necessary Mods to bolt up. I guess the 94-96's bolt up (L35 ?), but supposedly aren't as good.
Vortecs
96 + are the good ones but U'll have to go to John Waller, RPM or McCoy, etc. to do the necessary Mods to bolt up. I guess the 94-96's bolt up (L35 ?), but supposedly aren't as good.
supersports10
New member
here you go all the info you ever wanted to know... and more!!!!look for cylinder heads in bold print :tup:
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38177&highlight=
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Vortecs
Vortecs
According to the Flow #'s I've seen on the liust, Yes.
Vortecs
According to the Flow #'s I've seen on the liust, Yes.
If you're not experienced in modding heads/intakes... don't attempt it.
I'm in the middle of upgrading to Vortecs now and it's not all cut and dry. HERE are pics of my progress and the method I am using. IMO the correct way to do it is to add the spacers. I went one step further to have them welded to the intake. I did a lot of homework finding a "good" aluminum welder, luckily we had a mutual friend that I was unaware of at the time. If you aren't comfortable with fabrication, plan to pay a few bucks.
I am aware of two other methods to modify the intake to fit the vortecs and both are easier. Once you get the intake welded, then you will have to deal with re-tapping the bolt holes in the heads. There is about a 1/16" tollerance for location so you have to be pretty accurate. For most people I am guessing that it wouldn't be worth the trouble. If you don't have contacts, save some money and use a set of L35's. In my case, I don't have the forced induction so I opted to make the swap.
I found everything I needed to know via the SEARCH... it's invaluable!
Good Luck, keep us posted on your upgrade.
I'm in the middle of upgrading to Vortecs now and it's not all cut and dry. HERE are pics of my progress and the method I am using. IMO the correct way to do it is to add the spacers. I went one step further to have them welded to the intake. I did a lot of homework finding a "good" aluminum welder, luckily we had a mutual friend that I was unaware of at the time. If you aren't comfortable with fabrication, plan to pay a few bucks.
I am aware of two other methods to modify the intake to fit the vortecs and both are easier. Once you get the intake welded, then you will have to deal with re-tapping the bolt holes in the heads. There is about a 1/16" tollerance for location so you have to be pretty accurate. For most people I am guessing that it wouldn't be worth the trouble. If you don't have contacts, save some money and use a set of L35's. In my case, I don't have the forced induction so I opted to make the swap.
I found everything I needed to know via the SEARCH... it's invaluable!
Good Luck, keep us posted on your upgrade.
i did a vortec conversion recently and it wasn't too bad...it took alot of time, but it was worth while...personally, i disagree that the spacer method is the way to go, but it does work...raising the intake slightly complicates the distributor install height.... you need to use the newer hexed arp studs if you plan to do this while the motor is in the truck...otherwise it will be more of a pain....i had an aluminum welding shop weld them up (cost 140.00), then i took them to a machine shop with a horizontal milling machine for resurfacing the intake (cost 75.00), they also drilled the heads (50.00), and of course the building of the heads with proper springs and 2.02/1.60 valves (~500.00) ...i made a small attempt to port match the intake to heads...also made my own intake gaskets.....so far, so good....the motor hasn't seen more than 12.5 lbs of boost yet, but it feels very nice anyway....apparently, the vortecs take more timing and/or boost before deto... the following is a pretty good post on the vortecs then an offsite page that explains the differences between pre and post '96 heads....
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=32598&highlight=vortec+combustion
http://www.chevymania.com/tech/vortec.htm
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=32598&highlight=vortec+combustion
http://www.chevymania.com/tech/vortec.htm
:tup: Yes, good point... I failed to mention it.93ty475 said:
I am having the seat milled down to place the dist. at the original height.
With the spacers, my ports will be matched almost perfectly. The thickess of the spacer and the fact that I can take a little off the intake should make for nice smooth flow. i hope to have it back from the welder later this week. I'll have pics posted too.
With spacers, you'll have about 3/16"-1/4" gap at the front and back where the intake meets the block. I have heard that it's OK to use RTV to fill it, but I didn't like the idea. I also cut spacers for that area to be welded in at the same time. My intake should have the same fit as it did only 3/16" higher.bezerk said:
If you tap the heads and use the 6 bolt pattern (stock SyTySgt), you will need some gasket sealant around the new bolt holes in the '96+ gaskets as well.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
not sure why you would want to use spacers, or double gaskets. if you weld the intake and port match the runners, then all you need to do is redrill the vortec heads for the factory intake. Fits the same as stock. No distributor shim, no spacer, nothing. When installed you would be hard pressed to notice a difference cosmetically. Below is one of our already converted manifolds.
supersports10
New member
how much does that cost mike???OK,
First off I want to say to Mike... Nice intake, I'd bolt that on anyday! IMO the method you mentioned is probably the most practical when you factor in time, money and end result. I agree that it's a nice effective way to adapt the intake.
The following is just my :2cents: explaining my choice.
I chose to do the spacers, but I didn't like the idea of double gaskets. As I mentioned earlier, I am going above and beyond to do it as best I can for one simple reason... I am basically relying on the piston to draw the air into the cylinder. I don't have anything forcing it in so I need the most accurate alignment possible.
When the intake is matched up with the vortec head the runners are mis-aligned at both TOP and BOTTOM. I did a quick photoshop in attemtp to explain what I mean. I know, it's not to scale and upside down... I just wanted to get the point across. Anyway, the YELLOW areas are the VORTEC PORTS and the GREEN area is the surface of the VORTEC HEAD where it would be positioned if mounted without spacers. I made it faint so you can see the intake runners underneath.
As you can see above, the runners of the intake have poor alignment with the vortec heads. The space at the bottom of each runner in the intake is 3/16" and on the vortec heads it's 5/16" also the runer height is 1 7/8" on the intake and 2 1/8" on the vortec head. The goal for the best alignment is to center the smaller intake runner in the larger vortec runner.
There's more involved here than just covering the exposed area of the port by welding on material to the intake. If you can visualize it, imagine the intake raised up (down in pic) to align the bottom edges of the ports. That also nearly eliminates the gap at the top of the port as well. This reduces the amount of port matching needed and improves overall alignment.
My spacers will be permanently welded to the intake around the outside and around each runner. Once machined down it'll hardly be noticeable. It'll fit onto the block and heads just as it did with the L35's with stock '96+ gaskets.
Well, to sum it all up... I am not trying to say that my method is the best and everyone should do it. It's just that IMO it was the best choice for me and i wanted the best quality work. To me a double gasket would have been a patch, not a fix. It probably doesn't make much difference with forced induction, but I feel it would in my case. I can take criticism well so if anything I said is too far fetched please set me straight.
To those that want to do the vortecs... spacers aren't necessary and probably more trouble than they are worth. I am a little picky I guess and needed a litle more. It comforts me to feel as if I have done a professional job.
First off I want to say to Mike... Nice intake, I'd bolt that on anyday! IMO the method you mentioned is probably the most practical when you factor in time, money and end result. I agree that it's a nice effective way to adapt the intake.
The following is just my :2cents: explaining my choice.
I chose to do the spacers, but I didn't like the idea of double gaskets. As I mentioned earlier, I am going above and beyond to do it as best I can for one simple reason... I am basically relying on the piston to draw the air into the cylinder. I don't have anything forcing it in so I need the most accurate alignment possible.
When the intake is matched up with the vortec head the runners are mis-aligned at both TOP and BOTTOM. I did a quick photoshop in attemtp to explain what I mean. I know, it's not to scale and upside down... I just wanted to get the point across. Anyway, the YELLOW areas are the VORTEC PORTS and the GREEN area is the surface of the VORTEC HEAD where it would be positioned if mounted without spacers. I made it faint so you can see the intake runners underneath.
As you can see above, the runners of the intake have poor alignment with the vortec heads. The space at the bottom of each runner in the intake is 3/16" and on the vortec heads it's 5/16" also the runer height is 1 7/8" on the intake and 2 1/8" on the vortec head. The goal for the best alignment is to center the smaller intake runner in the larger vortec runner.
There's more involved here than just covering the exposed area of the port by welding on material to the intake. If you can visualize it, imagine the intake raised up (down in pic) to align the bottom edges of the ports. That also nearly eliminates the gap at the top of the port as well. This reduces the amount of port matching needed and improves overall alignment.
My spacers will be permanently welded to the intake around the outside and around each runner. Once machined down it'll hardly be noticeable. It'll fit onto the block and heads just as it did with the L35's with stock '96+ gaskets.
Well, to sum it all up... I am not trying to say that my method is the best and everyone should do it. It's just that IMO it was the best choice for me and i wanted the best quality work. To me a double gasket would have been a patch, not a fix. It probably doesn't make much difference with forced induction, but I feel it would in my case. I can take criticism well so if anything I said is too far fetched please set me straight.
To those that want to do the vortecs... spacers aren't necessary and probably more trouble than they are worth. I am a little picky I guess and needed a litle more. It comforts me to feel as if I have done a professional job.
you'll be fine Mirrado...the more i read about your conversion, the more i like it...your method looks just as involved as the way i did it...no method of converting to vortecs is as easy as it looks...i ran into a few problems with mine during the conversion, but i just dealt with it along the way...your right that the "vortec intake ports are tall and narrow" and the "stock ports are short and wide"....like i said before, spacers work...there are spacers in the low tens...were your spacers made on a cnc machine or did you cut them out by hand?
bucwildbob
proud owner # 1662
Here is a question about heads that i didnt see on any of those pages or in searches. I work at advance and i was checking out heads, the typhoon head and syclone head have diff part numbers, the syclone was the same as the regular W vin s10 but the typhoon had a diff part #. I thought the heads were the same? I am in the process of putting 96+ heads on mine and an intake along with a stand alone fuel system.. so another question. exhaust manifolds. will the stock sy/ty exhaust manifolds fit on a 96+ vortech head. From all my research it will fit on the 94-95 heads. I come to this site because the s10 forums people are complete idiots.
bucwildbob said:
the heads may not have the same casting numbers, but they should be the same....the exhaust manifolds will bolt up to the 96+ vortec heads....some syty exhaust manifolds shrink when removed and have to be stretched or heated to line up the mounting holes...i have experience with r&r'ing two syty sets and both sets had to be spread open as much as 1/2 inch to install...i've heard of a few different methods, but i streched them into place with a portapower...