New Best 1/4 mile time
- Thread starter dgoodhue
- Start date
Ry368
one mile = 5280 feet
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
x2, I know this all to well.
Nice job Dave, keep it going.
Nick
x2, I know this all to well.
Nice job Dave, keep it going.
Nick
mattw
Active member
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
I got to ride in Dave's truck a few weeks ago and what’s nice/unique about this 11 sec truck is:
The air conditioning works.
It still has power steering, power brakes, power windows, etc..
It’s all together and functional. Everything is there, works, is clean and looks nice.
It rides nice. Dave accelerated hard over a few sketchy sections of road and the truck handled it gracefully without bottoming out or making any weird noises.
The truck doesn't squeak, clunk, rattle and have any bad behaviors.
Well done Dave! I know you have put a lot of work into this truck and it shows....
I got to ride in Dave's truck a few weeks ago and what’s nice/unique about this 11 sec truck is:
The air conditioning works.
It still has power steering, power brakes, power windows, etc..
It’s all together and functional. Everything is there, works, is clean and looks nice.
It rides nice. Dave accelerated hard over a few sketchy sections of road and the truck handled it gracefully without bottoming out or making any weird noises.
The truck doesn't squeak, clunk, rattle and have any bad behaviors.
Well done Dave! I know you have put a lot of work into this truck and it shows....
IRVIN COLON
New member
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
Nice 11 second nice
Nice 11 second nice
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
I definitely need some practice with the light. I 'tried' to leave on the last amber but you can see how that went. At least my truck makes up for it off the line
I definitely need some practice with the light. I 'tried' to leave on the last amber but you can see how that went. At least my truck makes up for it off the line
Jimmy
Banned
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
I roll into the light until I'm just staged.Spool it up and leave as soon as you see the last amber.Its like .5 reaction time between Amber and green.If you nail the amber you are in the thousands of seconds reaction time. Practice that.
I definitely need some practice with the light. I 'tried' to leave on the last amber but you can see how that went. At least my truck makes up for it off the line
I roll into the light until I'm just staged.Spool it up and leave as soon as you see the last amber.Its like .5 reaction time between Amber and green.If you nail the amber you are in the thousands of seconds reaction time. Practice that.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
Here's my setup for operating the 2-step. (I also have line locks.) Looks hooky but it's only there when I'm at the track. Wing nut on the lower screw, on and off in seconds.
Some hints on use for you. Hold the button down with your hand open. IE not touching anything but the button. When that third amber lights pull you hand off the button. You'll react a little quicker with your hand open. Get in as many runs as you can. It gets better. Check the air pressure in your front tires. Lower will give you slower reaction times, higher quicker. Try to stage as close to the same place each time. Usually juuuust as the stage lights come on.
Reaction time is the total of; seeing the bulb, reacting to it, getting you finger off the button, the truck reacting, the truck moving out of the stage beam. The reaction timer starts with the green but by reacting to the bottom yellow considering the above the light is green by the time you move out of the beem. (Normally .5 secs between bulbs.)
Keep a log book.
Most of all have fun.
Here's my setup for operating the 2-step. (I also have line locks.) Looks hooky but it's only there when I'm at the track. Wing nut on the lower screw, on and off in seconds.
Some hints on use for you. Hold the button down with your hand open. IE not touching anything but the button. When that third amber lights pull you hand off the button. You'll react a little quicker with your hand open. Get in as many runs as you can. It gets better. Check the air pressure in your front tires. Lower will give you slower reaction times, higher quicker. Try to stage as close to the same place each time. Usually juuuust as the stage lights come on.
Reaction time is the total of; seeing the bulb, reacting to it, getting you finger off the button, the truck reacting, the truck moving out of the stage beam. The reaction timer starts with the green but by reacting to the bottom yellow considering the above the light is green by the time you move out of the beem. (Normally .5 secs between bulbs.)
Keep a log book.
Most of all have fun.
randy merritt
Donating Member
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
Not to get to far off subject, but here is my older post of how I hooked up my line locks and two step:
"Had some time so I figured I would post some pics of my recent mods. Needed to get rid of the old ABS (failing), so I bought a Hood delete kit along with two brass adapters ($5)to connect the abs kit to the line locks. Figured I would go ahead and do line locks while I was at it and also install the MSD 6al2 once the ABS was out of the way.
I went to pick and pull and got a pigtail for the cruise control servo ($6). I did this so I would not have to cut the one off of my servo, in case I ever wanted to reinstall the cruise that was removed with the ABS delete. Next I went under the dash to the left of the steering column and unplugged the harness that went to the cruise control module and ran a jumper between pin 84 and pin 403. I used a paper clip, but not the one in the picture. I taped this up and stuck it back under the dash.
By doing this, it allows the blue and white wire at the cruise control servo to output 12V when the SET button is pushed and held, but ONLY if the cruise is in the "on" position. This effectively serves as both a toggle switch and a momentary switch that is unnoticeable, and allows me to keep both hands on the wheel during a launch.
I hooked the blue and white wire up to a relay for the line locks, and to the two step activator on the MSD. So by turning the cruise "on" and holding the SET button, my two step is activated (set on 2500 rpm for now), and the line locks are engaged. Sure this has been done before, but I could not get any pics when I was searching. The line lock for the rear is on the frame under the driver's side ( attached between Hood's kit and the factory hard line). Total cost to hook everything up like this was about $15 (had to buy a short piece of steel line from NAPA, and I did not count the $40 cruise/turn single lever I had to buy as mine was bad). This setup absolutely works, I have done a couple of launches with it. Enjoy, sorry the pics are not in any order, I am not an expert poster yet."
Not to get to far off subject, but here is my older post of how I hooked up my line locks and two step:
"Had some time so I figured I would post some pics of my recent mods. Needed to get rid of the old ABS (failing), so I bought a Hood delete kit along with two brass adapters ($5)to connect the abs kit to the line locks. Figured I would go ahead and do line locks while I was at it and also install the MSD 6al2 once the ABS was out of the way.
I went to pick and pull and got a pigtail for the cruise control servo ($6). I did this so I would not have to cut the one off of my servo, in case I ever wanted to reinstall the cruise that was removed with the ABS delete. Next I went under the dash to the left of the steering column and unplugged the harness that went to the cruise control module and ran a jumper between pin 84 and pin 403. I used a paper clip, but not the one in the picture. I taped this up and stuck it back under the dash.
By doing this, it allows the blue and white wire at the cruise control servo to output 12V when the SET button is pushed and held, but ONLY if the cruise is in the "on" position. This effectively serves as both a toggle switch and a momentary switch that is unnoticeable, and allows me to keep both hands on the wheel during a launch.
I hooked the blue and white wire up to a relay for the line locks, and to the two step activator on the MSD. So by turning the cruise "on" and holding the SET button, my two step is activated (set on 2500 rpm for now), and the line locks are engaged. Sure this has been done before, but I could not get any pics when I was searching. The line lock for the rear is on the frame under the driver's side ( attached between Hood's kit and the factory hard line). Total cost to hook everything up like this was about $15 (had to buy a short piece of steel line from NAPA, and I did not count the $40 cruise/turn single lever I had to buy as mine was bad). This setup absolutely works, I have done a couple of launches with it. Enjoy, sorry the pics are not in any order, I am not an expert poster yet."
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
Ya, seems lots of folks have doen it that way. Or at least there's been a few posts. Anyway my setup is the third itteration. 1) Switch in the dash near top of the panel that holds the light sw. 2) Button in same location. 3) what you see. It works for me.:dunno:
My line locks are on the inside fender well. Not teribly pretty but it works. Next step would be custom flexable lines. That would make a much cleaner installation.
Ya, seems lots of folks have doen it that way. Or at least there's been a few posts. Anyway my setup is the third itteration. 1) Switch in the dash near top of the panel that holds the light sw. 2) Button in same location. 3) what you see. It works for me.:dunno:
My line locks are on the inside fender well. Not teribly pretty but it works. Next step would be custom flexable lines. That would make a much cleaner installation.
SYCLONE#1531
'MOFOFAST
Re: New Best 1/4 mile time
Nice runs!
Nice runs!
