THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
What is the proper way to do this? I see that there is a snap ring on there. Is there anything else I should know?
Reclocking the stock turbo
- Thread starter THEMADTYPH00N
- Start date
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
The snap ring simply holds the compressor housing on. There may be a pin jutting out from one of the housings that prevents rotation. I cant remember if its the compressor, exhaust or both.
I imagine you'd grind this down and no longer have an issue rotating the housing.
I imagine you'd grind this down and no longer have an issue rotating the housing.
Syclone#892
Member
Just checked and I don't have a good picture but there is a real big internal snap ring on the intake side. Just remove that and the housing comes off so you can reclock it. I don't have a stock turbo so I am not sure about the post but I have heard someone mention it before that you had to grind a post down.
One thing I am not sure if you have covered yet is that you will not be able to just mount your wastegate actuator back up now that you just reclocked it. Not sure if you have an external gate or have made a bracket. I choose to go the cheap route this year and just made a bracket , basically a big circle that bolt to the old actuator holes and you just drill some holes in the bracket to remount the actuator.
Good Luck, you are installing Mike Lees intercooler right? Very nice I like it no data on it yet though as I have a bunch left to put back together.
One thing I am not sure if you have covered yet is that you will not be able to just mount your wastegate actuator back up now that you just reclocked it. Not sure if you have an external gate or have made a bracket. I choose to go the cheap route this year and just made a bracket , basically a big circle that bolt to the old actuator holes and you just drill some holes in the bracket to remount the actuator.
Good Luck, you are installing Mike Lees intercooler right? Very nice I like it no data on it yet though as I have a bunch left to put back together.
THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
Yes I am reclocking the turbo for Mike Lee's Air to Air IC. The actuator is really of no concern because I have an external gate anyway. Thanks for your help.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: Reclocking the stock turbo
Don't mean to bring up a dead post but I'm prepping my turbo for reclocking (in the future). There is a tiny pin on the exhaust side and a little steel pin pushed in the intake side. If I grind down these, that's it, right? Then the band and snap ring holds everything together?
Don't mean to bring up a dead post but I'm prepping my turbo for reclocking (in the future). There is a tiny pin on the exhaust side and a little steel pin pushed in the intake side. If I grind down these, that's it, right? Then the band and snap ring holds everything together?
THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
Re: Reclocking the stock turbo
That is correct
That is correct
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: Reclocking the stock turbo
Yep. Found it. On the "inside" of the compressor (aluminum) side, after you pop the snap ring out is a steel peg. This peg mates up with a notch in the cartridge (center section). I took a dremel with a carbide bit on high speed and worked its contours to match the housing. Now the compressor side can spin on the cartridge where ever you want it. All a guy would need is Mike's doodad reclocker plate to mount the actuator. On the actuator. I tested mine and it was fine. So what I did was used a product called "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner and an old tooth brush and cleaned the housing. ALL the rust and corrosion came right off. Looks like BRAND NEW. Don't let ANY of the acid cleaner get INTO the housing. Don't get it on your hands. I held it by the rod over the sink in the kitchen with the window open and the fan in the kitchen running. You will see smoke come off the actuator housing as the acid eats the corrosion away. It is so neat. Every number, the little Mitsubishi symbol, everything showed up clear as day and then I used silver ceramic 500 degree engine paint on the it and the compressor housing after I cleaned them up and then reassembled everything. I am really happy with it.
Yep. Found it. On the "inside" of the compressor (aluminum) side, after you pop the snap ring out is a steel peg. This peg mates up with a notch in the cartridge (center section). I took a dremel with a carbide bit on high speed and worked its contours to match the housing. Now the compressor side can spin on the cartridge where ever you want it. All a guy would need is Mike's doodad reclocker plate to mount the actuator. On the actuator. I tested mine and it was fine. So what I did was used a product called "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner and an old tooth brush and cleaned the housing. ALL the rust and corrosion came right off. Looks like BRAND NEW. Don't let ANY of the acid cleaner get INTO the housing. Don't get it on your hands. I held it by the rod over the sink in the kitchen with the window open and the fan in the kitchen running. You will see smoke come off the actuator housing as the acid eats the corrosion away. It is so neat. Every number, the little Mitsubishi symbol, everything showed up clear as day and then I used silver ceramic 500 degree engine paint on the it and the compressor housing after I cleaned them up and then reassembled everything. I am really happy with it.
Loeryder
New member
Re: Reclocking the stock turbo
So if that pin is not there to align the compressor housing is it feasible that one could reclock their turbo by merely putting a prybar down the outlet and twisting the housing downward?
Someone told me they did it this way and I thought they were nuts, but the snap ring will let the housing slide so I don't see it hurting anything.
The other risk is too much stress on the wall of the housing, but those castings are pretty thick.
I just hate messing with that snap ring.
So if that pin is not there to align the compressor housing is it feasible that one could reclock their turbo by merely putting a prybar down the outlet and twisting the housing downward?
Someone told me they did it this way and I thought they were nuts, but the snap ring will let the housing slide so I don't see it hurting anything.
The other risk is too much stress on the wall of the housing, but those castings are pretty thick.
I just hate messing with that snap ring.
