Soo I am pretty deep into my Typhoon. I have painted the frame,engine bay ect.,rebuilt the engine(short fill custom cam vortec heads ect), going with a front mount Air to air intercooler
later. I will run a oil cooler and a after market radiator maybe double or tripple pass. I already have the high volume pump. I am working on the fuel system. I will be running E85. I have a sumped fuel tank installed as of now and have a Magnafuel pump and filters. I will feed the pump with dual -08 lines from the tank,from pump to rails with -8 and a -8 return to the tank.
I am having an issue with where to mount the pump. I am trying to get it lower than the sump.
That is not really an option as the sump does end up pretty low on these trucks. I am thinking of mounting the pump in the stock air ride pump location but I am not sure if that is too high.
I have read all kinds of articles on the net and looked at countless pictures to this point. I am wondering if anyone here has any ideas or input particular to SYTY's.
Soo I am pretty deep into my Typhoon. I have painted the frame,engine bay ect.,rebuilt the engine(short fill custom cam vortec heads ect), going with a front mount Air to air intercooler
later. I will run a oil cooler and a after market radiator maybe double or tripple pass. I already have the high volume pump. I am working on the fuel system. I will be running E85. I have a sumped fuel tank installed as of now and have a Magnafuel pump and filters. I will feed the pump with dual -08 lines from the tank,from pump to rails with -8 and a -8 return to the tank.
I am having an issue with where to mount the pump. I am trying to get it lower than the sump.
That is not really an option as the sump does end up pretty low on these trucks. I am thinking of mounting the pump in the stock air ride pump location but I am not sure if that is too high.
I have read all kinds of articles on the net and looked at countless pictures to this point. I am wondering if anyone here has any ideas or input particular to SYTY's.
Your pump is self priming. You shouldn't have a problem even if it was mounted even with the top of the tank. Your thinking is correct... you want it as low as you can get it. That makes it easier on the pump, but you have to work in the space you have.
Make your fuel line have a nice sweep bend in it as to not have a kink and then a restriction. You mentioned running two -8 lines from the sump, so the two 90 degree fittings at the tank are ok if needed, but try to limit the sharp bends in the fuel line on the suction side. There are sweeping 90 degree fittings that are better than the short bend ones but you have to decide what you can fit based on your interference.
Once you get your fuel system all plumbed, open up the suction side hose fitting of the pump and squirt some fuel in the pump and re tighten your fuel line. Don't run the pump dry the first time. After the initial prime you won't have to do it again.
If you haven't purchased fuel lines and fittings yet research: "Conductive Teflon" for your E85 application.
With everything plumbed up and the initial prime of the pump, everything tight crank your fuel pressure up on your adjustable fuel reg and check for leaks. Don't start the engine. Run your fuel pump only. (if you make the fuel injectors work any junk or residue will get blown through the injectors and possibly clog them.) I suggest start with a paper type filter on initial start up of the fuel system. Any junk that found its way into the lines or tank should be left in your filter. Throw out the paper filter then install your cleanable stainless filters after that. (I believe the paper filters do a better job at filtering for the initial startup but can be more restrictive so switch to Stainless ones after that.) This sounds extreme but will save you the headache and expense of removing and getting your injectors cleaned after the first test of the system should there be junk in your lines.
Return your fuel pressure to the normal range after your test for leaks and let the system run a while and let the filters do their job before changing them and then starting the engine.
It is common to use a cutoff wheel to cut the AN lines after taping them. I have learned to avoid that method as it leaves a dust in the lines. Use a cable cutter (you should be familiar with that tool ) or I use this method:
This keeps the fuel lines cleaner than the cutoff wheel or chop saw method.
BTW this method works well for Rubber AN and Teflon AN lines.
If you run at an NHRA or another sanctioned track you may want to review the rules for fuel lines. As the fuel lines pass by the transmission they have to be protected placing them in the frame achieves this but you should check the current rules if you want to do it once.
Hope this helps you. Maybe more than you needed or already know but some lessons learned the hard/expensive way :roll:
Thank you sooo much for your response!! it is very helpful. I am pretty familiar with the cutter you refer to.lol. i will follow your recomendations to a tee. thanks again:tup:
If I did much hose work that's a slick way to get a clean cut. Regarding fuel lines and pumps. When you change away from "OEM" different rules kick in. If you want send me a PM and I'll send back the NHRA rule book for 2016 in PDF. Much easier than trying to quote the thing...
) or I use this method: 