Ok I did a search and couldn't really find what I was looking for, so I am just going to ask it. I have my motor out and figured while it was out I would do my motor mounts since I hear about them breaking all the time and as far as I know they are the original on the truck and I don't want to have to try and do it with the motor in. So I get a nice set of solid mounts from a guy on here and I go to work on putting them in the other day so I can get the motor back in. Well the problem I run into is this, there is a nut and bult on the frame side of the mounts, and I can not figure out how to get a wrench on the back side of the nut to hold it. Is there something I am missing or something I have to do to get to it? Please any help would be great. Thanks.
Motor mounts?
- Thread starter DRUNK411
- Start date
turbodig
Active member
Re: Motor mounts?
This is fresh in my mind... ie, I still have the nightmares.
The passenger side you can get to... open end wrench. You'll wrestle with it, but it's easy compared to...
The driver's side is a PITA.
Bottom rear nut, use a 3/8" flex handle (no ratchet) with a 15mm socket. Go in from the back, right up against the diff.
Bottom front nut, an open-end wrench fits in the hole at the front of the frame pad. You can just barely get a wrench on it.
Top one- go through the hole in the front of the pad with the open end wrench. You can see the nut via a small crack between the front diff and the frame. Your head has to be in just the right spot.
I put them back in with the nuts on the outside... saves frustration.
You could just save yourself the frustration entirely and use stock mounts. Get an engine tie-down from nallj92 on the board, and you don't have to worry about broken mounts.
Make sure your heat shield is in good shape, if you go this route. RenzFab makes new SS shields.
There's nothing wrong with the stockers, really, it's just that the heat kills them. Fix the shields, use a tie-down, and you're good to go.
DRUNK411 said:
This is fresh in my mind... ie, I still have the nightmares.
The passenger side you can get to... open end wrench. You'll wrestle with it, but it's easy compared to...
The driver's side is a PITA.
Bottom rear nut, use a 3/8" flex handle (no ratchet) with a 15mm socket. Go in from the back, right up against the diff.
Bottom front nut, an open-end wrench fits in the hole at the front of the frame pad. You can just barely get a wrench on it.
Top one- go through the hole in the front of the pad with the open end wrench. You can see the nut via a small crack between the front diff and the frame. Your head has to be in just the right spot.
I put them back in with the nuts on the outside... saves frustration.
You could just save yourself the frustration entirely and use stock mounts. Get an engine tie-down from nallj92 on the board, and you don't have to worry about broken mounts.
Make sure your heat shield is in good shape, if you go this route. RenzFab makes new SS shields.
There's nothing wrong with the stockers, really, it's just that the heat kills them. Fix the shields, use a tie-down, and you're good to go.
Norm
Donating Member
Re: Motor mounts?
I used a 1/2 " drive impact on mine with a6" extension-driver side. Pass side( no starter), used a 3/8 drive ratchet with a deep socket and awrench. I thought was pretty easy to do. I was a mechanic back in the early/mid 80's so having 5k in tools makes the job easier to do.Take your time, think about making the job smarter(easier) to do.
I used a 1/2 " drive impact on mine with a6" extension-driver side. Pass side( no starter), used a 3/8 drive ratchet with a deep socket and awrench. I thought was pretty easy to do. I was a mechanic back in the early/mid 80's so having 5k in tools makes the job easier to do.Take your time, think about making the job smarter(easier) to do.
Re: Motor mounts?
I just can't figure out where to go to get a wrench on the nuts thats the problem I run into. I have no issue getting to the front bolts obviously since the motor is out, but the nuts are another story I cant get at them very easily, and I didn't know if I was missing something. Do I still have to drop or loosen the front dif with the motor out? Thanks again for the help.
I just can't figure out where to go to get a wrench on the nuts thats the problem I run into. I have no issue getting to the front bolts obviously since the motor is out, but the nuts are another story I cant get at them very easily, and I didn't know if I was missing something. Do I still have to drop or loosen the front dif with the motor out? Thanks again for the help.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Motor mounts?
I kind of forgot/blocked out what went into doing these. I did them with a friends help, I did the nuts and held the wrench. I just remember it not being easy, but I also did them with the motor in. Good Idea on the nuts on the outside.
I know a local that used new stock mounts, the new mount fail within 1000 miles :rant:
turbodig said:
I kind of forgot/blocked out what went into doing these. I did them with a friends help, I did the nuts and held the wrench. I just remember it not being easy, but I also did them with the motor in. Good Idea on the nuts on the outside.
I know a local that used new stock mounts, the new mount fail within 1000 miles :rant:
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: Motor mounts?
Dropping the diff does make things easier but it can be done with everything in place. I was able to do mine with motor out and a 15mm wrench on the nuts and 15mm socket on the bolts. Took some imagination to figure out the angles and a flex head wrench helps a bunch but it is possible.
Dropping the diff does make things easier but it can be done with everything in place. I was able to do mine with motor out and a 15mm wrench on the nuts and 15mm socket on the bolts. Took some imagination to figure out the angles and a flex head wrench helps a bunch but it is possible.
turbodig
Active member
Re: Motor mounts?
I did it on a hoist, and dad ran the ratchet on the bolts, while I held the wrench.
*Much* easier with 2 people.
The only one where you can't flip the bolt around is on the passenger side, which is one you can get to, normally. I also put a star washer under each bolt head, so they would kinda hold themselves in once they were semi-tight. I had to leave them slightly loose to get the mount bolt to line up, then tighten after the motor was in.
Cutting a hole in the side triangles of the pads would help tons. I wanted mine to stay stockish, so I didn't go there.
I realize the line assembled these with the diff out, but they really should have put better access in this for service. I suppose they thought you'd never replace the frame side, just the rubber side one on the block.
Only problem I have now is my stock cooling fan is in danger of rubbing on the shroud upon engine flex. A tie down will likely keep it from happening, but it really doesn't have much margin. I've been considering shimming the trans mount, but that would affect my driveline angle, meaning I'd need to tweak the pinion angle. I really need to check that out anyway, so I don't end up with funky driveline vibration.
New mounts will fail if you don't really protect them with heat shield. The stock shields need to be chucked, they're no good. A couple of strips of thermotec material all around protect much better.
I'd find it hard to believe you'd break a mount with a tie-down on it.
dgoodhue said:
I did it on a hoist, and dad ran the ratchet on the bolts, while I held the wrench.
*Much* easier with 2 people.
The only one where you can't flip the bolt around is on the passenger side, which is one you can get to, normally. I also put a star washer under each bolt head, so they would kinda hold themselves in once they were semi-tight. I had to leave them slightly loose to get the mount bolt to line up, then tighten after the motor was in.
Cutting a hole in the side triangles of the pads would help tons. I wanted mine to stay stockish, so I didn't go there.
I realize the line assembled these with the diff out, but they really should have put better access in this for service. I suppose they thought you'd never replace the frame side, just the rubber side one on the block.
Only problem I have now is my stock cooling fan is in danger of rubbing on the shroud upon engine flex. A tie down will likely keep it from happening, but it really doesn't have much margin. I've been considering shimming the trans mount, but that would affect my driveline angle, meaning I'd need to tweak the pinion angle. I really need to check that out anyway, so I don't end up with funky driveline vibration.
New mounts will fail if you don't really protect them with heat shield. The stock shields need to be chucked, they're no good. A couple of strips of thermotec material all around protect much better.
I'd find it hard to believe you'd break a mount with a tie-down on it.
4C FED
Absolutum Dominium
Re: Motor mounts?
I did solids in the Sy & it was a relatively simple task with the motor out.
For the Ty I didn't want to veen attempt it with the motor in so I bought some ES poly mounts for the stock frame pads.
I'm hoping I can provide enough insulation around them so the don't have a meltdown.
If I remember correctly when I did do the Sy I used some tape on one side of the wrench to keep the nut in place/falling out, ease wrench & nut into position & get the bolt started.
I did solids in the Sy & it was a relatively simple task with the motor out.
For the Ty I didn't want to veen attempt it with the motor in so I bought some ES poly mounts for the stock frame pads.
I'm hoping I can provide enough insulation around them so the don't have a meltdown.
If I remember correctly when I did do the Sy I used some tape on one side of the wrench to keep the nut in place/falling out, ease wrench & nut into position & get the bolt started.
wildphil
I Love My Ty's
Re: Motor mounts?
I changed my mounts out and put in solids and pads with the motor in. Not a fun job. I found this post and it helped me alot. If anyone is planning on changing there's out with the motor in I think this may help them also http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48497&page=1&pp=15&highlight=not+removed I think these instructions should be placed in the vault.
I changed my mounts out and put in solids and pads with the motor in. Not a fun job. I found this post and it helped me alot. If anyone is planning on changing there's out with the motor in I think this may help them also http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48497&page=1&pp=15&highlight=not+removed I think these instructions should be placed in the vault.
turbodig
Active member
Re: Motor mounts?
Pic of Polys with Renz's heat shields, and thermotec. I spacered the 2 layers of thermotec so there's an air gap between - no direct heat transfer. These (mounts) are the kind with their own frame brackets, though.
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts/100_2520.JPG
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts/100_2531.JPG
There's a bunch more pics in:
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts
Didn't want to fill this with huge pics.
4C FED said:
Pic of Polys with Renz's heat shields, and thermotec. I spacered the 2 layers of thermotec so there's an air gap between - no direct heat transfer. These (mounts) are the kind with their own frame brackets, though.
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts/100_2520.JPG
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts/100_2531.JPG
There's a bunch more pics in:
http://digware.lunarpages.com/images/mounts
Didn't want to fill this with huge pics.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: Motor mounts?
i just did a set tonight for my street typhoon. Took no more then 20 minutes start to finish. All i used is a 15mm socket on a 1/2" impact and a standard length open end 15mm wrench.
Pass side.. loosen lower right bolt, then lower left, then upper. All inserting the wrench from the lower righthand side. To install snug upper, then line up the lower bolt holes.. Fully tighten lower left, then lower right, then slide the wrench in from the lower right corner just enough to hold tension on the upper nut.. zap it tight with the impact. The key is the fast spinning impact.
Pretty much the same for the driver side.. the only place you need to slide the wrench in from is the lower right side access hole (driver and pass side).
Probably the most difficult part is starting the upper bolts when putting the frame pads back on. I always put the nut in the open end part of the wrench and slide it up gently (brushing the backside of the frame) till i can fully see the threads on the back side of the hole. Without moving the wrench place the frame pad on the frame and start the bolt. Once you've got it started it takes maybe 4 minutes to finish each side.
Follow these instruction with an impact and it's a piece of cake..
i just did a set tonight for my street typhoon. Took no more then 20 minutes start to finish. All i used is a 15mm socket on a 1/2" impact and a standard length open end 15mm wrench.
Pass side.. loosen lower right bolt, then lower left, then upper. All inserting the wrench from the lower righthand side. To install snug upper, then line up the lower bolt holes.. Fully tighten lower left, then lower right, then slide the wrench in from the lower right corner just enough to hold tension on the upper nut.. zap it tight with the impact. The key is the fast spinning impact.
Pretty much the same for the driver side.. the only place you need to slide the wrench in from is the lower right side access hole (driver and pass side).
Probably the most difficult part is starting the upper bolts when putting the frame pads back on. I always put the nut in the open end part of the wrench and slide it up gently (brushing the backside of the frame) till i can fully see the threads on the back side of the hole. Without moving the wrench place the frame pad on the frame and start the bolt. Once you've got it started it takes maybe 4 minutes to finish each side.
Follow these instruction with an impact and it's a piece of cake..
