Need a cheap ABS contoller, new or rebuilt.

bluesyclone

New member
Sold one my Ty's to a guy, and now he takes it to a dealer who tells him the ABS controller is shot. I never had any problems with it!! Told him Id try to help him out finding one (I think he wants me to pay for it!)
Anybody know where I can get one cheap, new or rebuilt?
The help is much appreciated!!
B.J.
 

spooldup

Super Member
there was one on ebay under gmc typhoon like 3 weeks ago. Check the completed items. I think it was like 30 bucks.
 

Ty#1789

New member
Hello,

I am the new owner of frogmans TY. The GMc part number for it is 12547216 the description of it is ...Brakes, Anti-lock Brakes, Modulator Valve, S-series, 4WD .

Lowest price im seeing is 1000 dollars for the part. Any help would be appreciated I'd like to save BJ some money hes a pretty good guy.

Jamie
 

Sy-1177

Turbo Inside
I have a controller I could get rid of. They aren't cheap though. Mine is in great shape and looks A1. Shoot me a price and we'll see what happens. PM me if you'd like.
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
mike hood. tucker auto parts can sell you a reman one for cheap. call him at 877-858-2447
 

les

New member
I hear these things stop just fine without abs. ours is an early model abs setup so you might want to investigate that option. not having one opens a lot of space up under the hood and saves weight too. Seriously, a lot of guys are doing away with it I think.

Try checking with someone like jerry Mccoy and ask them about the possibility of deleting it
 
B

Blake

Guest
I'll have one here shortly. Doesn't throw codes. Does it have to work? Just kidding. Mine sucks. Unplugged it cause it wasn't safe.
Did the guy you sold it to have the shop do a brake job? If they serviced the brakes by just compressing the caliper and shoving the old fluid up into the brake line, it will fubar the ABS controller. Might explain why it worked for you then not for him.
Blake
 

Ty#1789

New member
Blake said:
I'll have one here shortly. Doesn't throw codes. Does it have to work? Just kidding. Mine sucks. Unplugged it cause it wasn't safe.
Did the guy you sold it to have the shop do a brake job? If they serviced the brakes by just compressing the caliper and shoving the old fluid up into the brake line, it will fubar the ABS controller. Might explain why it worked for you then not for him.
Blake

How would they go about correcting that problem if thats it? Was a authorized GMC dealer who serviced the breaks but now days that doesnt seem to mean much.
 
B

Blake

Guest
What exactly is wrong with the unit? There was an ABS GURU, Jeff Stabell, we used to have the privelege of having in our midst that educated us on several issues. I'd like to think he still lurkes around. There are small screens in the ABS unit that get plugged with the gunk that builds up when the caliper is just depressed and the fluid gets shoved up back toward the ABS unit. Ever see the crud that accumulates in the brake fluid resevoir? That brown crap is all through the system. Chunks of that will clog the screens in the ABS unit if fluid is back flushed and broken loose. Only fix is replacing the ABS unit once it has been done. There may have been a TSB on this to open the bleeder screw when compressing the piston. Now this depends on if the ABS unit threw a code or not. If a left front wheel sensor went bad, that is the problem, not the ABS unit. I have read horror stories however of owners going through lots of headaches where dealership had trucks for warranty repairs going through 2 or 3 units before the dealership realized they were messing them up. Of course the dealership isn't gonna tell you what they did. You'd have to have someone ask them(the owner) what exactly was done and if the ABS didn't work after that. Used trucks don't have warranties. It's not like you intentionally sold him a truck that the ABS unit didn't work on. Right?
If he burns up the tranny, you're not replacing it too are you? See what I mean? It would be different if you sold the truck under false pretenses.
Blake
 

Ty#1789

New member
I’m not really wanting to debate who pays for the abs fix, problem is when the truck came to me it wasn’t running, dealer fixes the problem that was keeping it from running and services the breaks. I finally am able to drive the truck and the abs light is on.

Two things could have happened

1. abs was screwed up before I got it. (Truck advertised as having abs)
2. Authorized GMC dealer screwed it up when they serviced the brakes "of which they are denying"

This all happened within 24 hours of receiving the truck
:-?
 
B

Blake

Guest
Dealer did it when the brakes were serviced. No doubt in my mind. Unfortunately, you are right. They are not gonna do anything to help you out. Not a whole lot you can do now. Put in a used one and THOROUGHLY bleed the system(do not use the DOT 5 synthetic stuff) or just unplug it. Read through here a bit and you will see that there are arguments either way for keeping it or getting rid of it. $150 isn't too bad for a working used one. Remanufactured ones from Pep Boys are in the $450+ range.
I'm not into debating who pays for stuff kinda crap. Just trying to help you understand what happened so you don't think you got screwed on a purchase. BJ buying the part would be doing you a favor as it wasn't his fault that the dealer didn't service the brakes correctly. But you also have to remember that these trucks are going on 10 years old now and they are picky anyway. Things go wrong naturally but sometimes ignorant dealers will help finish them off. What I'm trying to tell you is that things will go wrong with them. They were the best of what the technology could offer at the time with financial restraints from GM. These were the first trucks to have 4 wheel ABS. The technology has improved immensely over what was offered then. They now use a Bosch system over the old Kelsey-Hayes unit we have. There were many reasons for this but I'm sure you don't care about that. If you do, it's in the archives.
Too bad I couldn't help you understand any better.
Blake
 

Ty#1789

New member
I have a meeting with the service manager today. How should I go about explaining my case? My understanding from reading your post is that the tech probably didnt open the bleeder valve when depressing the brakes? Forcing the gunk back up into the abs unit? Is this a practice that is normaly done on break jobs, should the tech have treated my trucks break system differently than all the other GMC's theyve serviced.

Any help in pleading my case would be appreciated.
 

les

New member
maybe try printing out some of this site to show him what other people who have gone through this think. My experiences are that dealers NEVER stand behind stuff. they alway find some reason to blow it off and blame it on anything and everything else.

I would also ask that if perchance they DID bleed it wrong, could this have happened. That way you at least have a possible discussion about it. if they say it couldn't happen this way, get a couple of other opinions that say different. Now at least you have the grounds for an arguement, whether it be in the dealership or the small claims courtroom The way they operate service depts. at dealerships and the way they abuse the technicians they are probably not about to do anything willingly. Don't spend too much time time arguing with the service guy. go to the top, and make them believe that you mean business, know what you're talking about, and it is in theire best interests to rectify this problem without things getting litigous. at least maybe they will cut you a break on cost. unfortunately, their break is probably more than you could get an excellent mechanic to fix it for.

be polite and state the obvious. it worked before and then you did something to it , and now it doesn't work anymore. Also, don't try to convince them that you are a total expert in these things. It might backfire on you and they come back saying you should have know the risks and so forth.

"it worked before and now since you worked on it it doesn't work anymore. are you going to stand behind it or not" small claims courts usually try to split the costs onthese type of things. Dealers don't usually like to go there. If when you get their final no, file claim and see if they change their minds about helping out.

are you sure thatis it not just a sensor thats making the light come on. this does happen and they're pretty cheap. maybe it's just not in right?
 

les

New member
for what it's worth, I wold just disconnect it. It's first generation ABS and I have been told that they work just fine without it. Don't let this destroy your happiness about having one of the coolest rides around. make the brakes work and go out on the street with your new toy and find a corvette or mustang and bring a little joy into your life!

know what Imean???
 
B

Blake

Guest
Here you go. Took me a while but here is the E-Mail from the GUY WHO WORKED FOR KELSEY-HAYES. Good luck trying to get the dealer to make things right. You'll quickly understand why we trust each other more than the damn dealer :-?

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:11:23 -0400
Some of you have been around long enough to remember my earlier warnings on
this subject, but as we have many new members I thought I might repost this
tid bit which can save you $800+ dollars.

When changing the front disc brake pads it is VERY important to open the
bleeder screws on the caliper when pushing the piston back into the caliper
to make room for the new pads. This will push the old fluid out the
bleeder screw rather than back through the ABS unit. Over time brake fluid
gets sediment in it....the ABS unit has VERY fine mesh screens and
sensitive reset switches (ABS codes 61,62 etc..). If these screens clog up
with the sediment there is NO way to clean them and the ABS unit will need
to be replaced. I have seen MANY cases of ABS units malfunctioning after
an older truck (3+ years) had a front pad change....sometimes a week or two
after or even before the truck even leaves the shop. Without this pushing
of the piston back in at brake pad change time, the sediment really just
stays put and does no damage or affect anything. Once one ABS unit goes it
is very likely that the next one you put in will go also as the sediment is
still all over the brake system and I have heard of many Dealer techs who
end up using the ABS unit as a VERY expensive filter (2,3,even 4 x
replacing). (They just think that they got 4 "bad ones" in a row!) Once
one has been contaminated the brake system must be flushed even using
compressed air to blow through the lines with air....(makes it a SOB to
bleed the air out but at least it is clean!)

This procedure is good to do on all ABS systems, but for our Sy/Ty's it is
CRITICAL!! Newer ABS systems are more tolerant of sediment. If you take
your truck in for the pad service you MUST specifically talk with the tech
working on it and tell him to use this procedure....many, many still use
the preABS way of just forcing it back in because it is quicker and
time=money..

Jeff Stabell
91 Sy
Walled Lake, Mi

Like I said before. The guy you bought it off of was not trying to pull a fast one on you. I don't even know him. Just trying to keep any animosity you have aimed in the right direction if that makes any sense. Please let us know how it goes with the dealer today. Never know. They may do you right.
Blake
 
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