no start

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
got the sy almost done and was going to start it today and it would just crank. just got done installing the new motor. i thought i had all grounds but maybe not. i also found that the alt fuse on the back was bad, changed that out but still just cranks like a bad battery so i through jumper cables on and after it still would not start i took the cables off and the battery was very hot and not melted but made the plastic around the screws soft and weak.

anyone have any ideas?
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: no start

they were all good before i took it out.

injectors are pluged in

supersports10 said:
ecm b fuse?? ign module?? fuseable link???
 

MikeRenz

not stock
Re: no start

also you dist is prolly just clocked way the f out. i know mine sure was...heh. If you'd like a refresher course on how not to start a truck, i can show you my self help video
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: no start

pretty sure i have spark, i thought about the timing being way off but unless it is 180 i have it right flat part of the cap facing the drivers side on a angle. does anyone know where are the grounds are? i have one on the starter, one on the battery to fender, two on the drivers side head i moved to the intake.
 

Jersey 91/93

NASTE Member
Re: no start

When I finally got my Ty running this fall (with Smaug's Syclone's distributor), it turns out that I had the distributor in the right place, but the timing was so far off that I needed to rotate the plug wires around the cap one position. It started right up once I tried that.

Your grounds sound good to me. Those connections should cover what you need, assuming that the intake makes good metal-to-metal contact with the block somewhere.
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: no start

what do you mean "rotate the plug wires"

Jersey 91/93 said:
When I finally got my Ty running this fall (with Smaug's Syclone's distributor), it turns out that I had the distributor in the right place, but the timing was so far off that I needed to rotate the plug wires around the cap one position. It started right up once I tried that.

Your grounds sound good to me. Those connections should cover what you need, assuming that the intake makes good metal-to-metal contact with the block somewhere.
 

Jersey 91/93

NASTE Member
Re: no start

I pulled each plug wire off the top of the cap and moved it around (I don't remember if I moved them clockwise or counterclockwise) to the next post. I had no reason to suspect it would work, but I surprised myself. Apparently my timing was 60 degrees off!

By the way, I broke down and bought a timing light a few weeks later. With the relocated plug wires still in their non-book location and the tan wire disconnected, I was within 1.5 degrees from zero. Not too bad for eyeballing it followed by a WAG (wild-ass guess) fix.
 

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: no start

Raist103 said:
does anyone know where are the grounds are? i have one on the starter, one on the battery to fender, two on the drivers side head i moved to the intake.

I was thinking ground as well but sounds like you have them all covered. did you try swapping your fuel pump relay with the ac relay(the two above your brake booster)
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Re: no start

Check and make sure you are getting spark at the sparkplug. You can pull a plug out of the head. When you remove the plug look to see if it is wet. If it is you are getting fuel. You can just put the plug wire back on the plug and lay the plug down so you can see the electrode and have someone crank the engine. If you see a spark you know it is firing. If it does get spark then you probably have your distributor not quite set right. If you have number one plug out have someone crank the engine. Put your thumb on number one sparkplug hole in the head. You will feel air pushed out the hole. Air will be pushed out on the exhaust stroke and tdc both, But on tdc you feel more more force when the air is pushed out. When you feel that your mark on the harmonic balancer will be close to the timing tab. Then just line up your balancer mark up to the timing tab. After you do that look at the rotor. Were ever the rotor is pointing is were the distributor is firing at tdc. You can either pull the distributor and point to number one cylinder. Or you can place number one sparkplug wire on the distributor spot that the rotor is pointed to and then place the other plug wires from there.
 

autoaddictions

Active member
Re: no start

You must have your distrubutor on tooth off. Have sombody crank the truck while you turn your dist. from center to right then center to left untill you get a little fire. Once you do thats the way you need to add a tooth to buy pulling the dist. out and resetting my one.
Checking for fuel and spark first be wise. Make sure you have a charger on the truck while cranking low battery voltage makes more heat and thats why your melting wires. Keep the voltage up.
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: no start

thanks guys i am going to try this, maybe this weekend when i can get a 2nd hand out there

DaveP6999 said:
WildPhil tells how to get the distributor installed with the 'rotor' in the correct position. Here's how to 'static' set the timing:

Verify the #1 plug wire position, and make a corresponding mark on the distributor base.

Be sure engine is in #1 firing position, by checking w/ #1 plug out, and lining up timing marks @ 0.

Remove the cap, have mounting bolt loose enough to turn easily by hand.

The rotor should be within 10 deg or so of the 'mark' on the base.
If not, "fix" this first. I.e, re-position the distributor in the engine, or change the wires in the cap.

Rotate dist base CLOCKWISE about 30 degrtees or so. ( So the mark is to the LEFT of the rotor).Turn key on.

Using two hands, turn the dist 'sharply' CCW while watching the relationship between the 'mark' and the rotor. As they 'get close', the dist will 'fire'. You will hear the fuel pump relay and pump run for 2 seconds.

Do this several times to get an 'average' of where the 'magic spot' is. Then put the dist in that position, tighten the bolt snugly, install the cap and wires, and fire it up.

Recheck with a timing light, with tan wire disconnected, when running, but I'm usually within a degree or two of being correct.

Learn to do this!! Your engines will fire the first time, everytime. There are no excuses for not having the timing correct the first time you fire it. It's not a mystery.
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Just to set the record straight, there is no such thing as "1 tooth off", or "180 deg out". etc. It is possible to get the engine to run with the distributor gear installed in any of the possible 13 positions. The issue is the the dist BASE may end up in a position where the wires (secondary or primary) are in the wrong position.

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DaveP
 

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
Re: no start

well dis was in backwards i took the cap off and the rotor was facing the number 6 plug so i turned it around and it sounded a lot better turned the cap and it fired right up. now i need a dip stick since i forgot to put it in when i installed the motor and broke the two i had trying to get them in. if anYone knows the part number for a flex dip stick for the oil please let me know asap.

thanks fpr the help guys
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Re: no start

That is great you got it running. It is easy to make a mistake on setting the distributor. I have done it several times.
 
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