oil return line

Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
so i noticed some where some how the line at the lower part of oil pan is gashed pretty bad. not sure if it happned @ machine shop when moving around.

Anyone have a soloution.

looking for a machined oil return from lower oil port on turbo to go down. I see RPM or who ever also sells a kit and there webstored is Down.

Trying to figure on if i can unscrew the large block(@ lower part of oil pan) (90* elbow block), and buy a NPT to AN. and make a line.

I have a few options really am not looking to jerry rig anything and this is of course, right before i fire the truck up so do i really want to pump oil all through them lines?

If anyone has anything let me know. Thanks
 
IpHoOnDyou

IpHoOnDyou

New member
Re: oil return line

Slyclone said:
so i noticed some where some how the line at the lower part of oil pan is gashed pretty bad. not sure if it happned @ machine shop when moving around.

Anyone have a soloution.

looking for a machined oil return from lower oil port on turbo to go down. I see RPM or who ever also sells a kit and there webstored is Down.

Trying to figure on if i can unscrew the large block(@ lower part of oil pan) (90* elbow block), and buy a NPT to AN. and make a line.

I have a few options really am not looking to jerry rig anything and this is of course, right before i fire the truck up so do i really want to pump oil all through them lines?

If anyone has anything let me know. Thanks
Click to expand...
Sytyperformance.com
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: oil return line

You can indeed remove the line and make one out of AN.

I did the same thing. It's a 3/4" NPT fitting on the pan. -10 is the minimum for the oil return.

HTH.
 
Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

you the man. thanks.

I spent most of the night browsing through a summit book looking for ideas. I figured i can either go into the oil pan with a NPT-AN reducer? it can be strait or a 90.

Than i figured i can go with a swivel head connection or strait. not sure which is easiest. I believe a 90* fitting and end of oil pan would work better(closer to original design) I examined RPM kit and it looks like a strait sweep right in...

Who sells individual oil return flanges for Mitsubishi turbos? Ebay has them but there in hong kong and it takes weeks for delivery.

Its just ashame when im so close and i know that thing will squirt oil all over the place.
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: oil return line

Might work - $9.99 gamble.

I remember looking and really struggling - the stock turbos had a weird size and I ended up welding the stock hardline to an AN fitting to make it work in the end.

That looks promising though!
 
Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

probably going to go with something simmilar. Best thing to do would be measure. Already have everything except that part. im sure i will figure it out in time
 
RealFastV6

RealFastV6

@jb_and_his_coffee
Re: oil return line

Slyclone said:
this is what im looking for not sure if this item is a part I can use.

something like it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T3-T4-Hy...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc0518f54
Click to expand...

That's not going to work if you have a stock turbo- that'd be for an aftermarket like a PTE or Turbonetics turbo. The spacing between the screws is wider on that.

You need to look for a Mitsubishi "TD06" flange.

Seriously, I'd just order the kit from RPM though- by the time you deal with finding the right flange, and putting the hose together (and doing it twice if you've never done it before) and getting the right fittings... you'll have spent enough time that you'll have wished you spent the $75 and ordered the RPM kit. Just my :2cents:.

ETA: This should work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Drain-Flange-8AN-Mitsubishi-TD04-TD05-TD06-/180783456434?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a1788a0b2
 
Last edited:
5678TA

5678TA

New member
Re: oil return line

if you do go the route of making your own, make sure your upper fitting is a 45* and wouldnt hurt to heat wrap the hose.

ask me how i figured that out....
 
RealFastV6

RealFastV6

@jb_and_his_coffee
Re: oil return line

5678TA said:
if you do go the route of making your own, make sure your upper fitting is a 45* and wouldnt hurt to heat wrap the hose.

ask me how i figured that out....
Click to expand...

How'd you figure that out? :D

I can't imagine heat wrap on an oil hose that close to the exhaust manifold/turbine is a good idea but maybe just me.
 
5678TA

5678TA

New member
Re: oil return line

Well I did the straight down hose and the bend needed to get around the exhaust crossover was too extreme and ended up pinching the hose. It also was very close to the crossover and started to burn/melt. Granted I was just using a rubber pushlock hose, I "heat wrapped" it with spark plug wire sleeve. Braided hose would probably negate the need for heat wrap.
 
Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

Hopefully what I worked on today helps out that heat problem. (other thread)

This is a photo I snapped today of under the truck of the hose area
100_3618.jpg
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, but I need some help before I order the correct part. What are both of the hoses in the pics (orange and black). I have a leak on the black one that goes into the pan. Is that the oil return line for the turbo or? Mine seems to be leaking from the fitting that is going into the pan as it goes into the black hose
Slyclone said:
Hopefully what I worked on today helps out that heat problem. (other thread)

This is a photo I snapped today of under the truck of the hose area
100_3618.jpg
Click to expand...
 
J

Jkanser

New member
Re: oil return line

The fitting which goes into your pan is the oil return line and typically leaks a small amount. Mine leaves a very small drip in the garage. I'm doing a turbo 5.3 swap over the winter but you can either pull the fitting and apply oil safe RTV sealant on the threads and retighten the hoses clamps as well. If the leak is severe you are better off replacing the entire line.
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: oil return line

Orange is the coolant return. The black one is the oil return. It's an annoying pipe - hardline from the turbo to rubber hose to hardpipe into the pan - I THINK. Definitely a PITA to solve.
The other two are the tranny lines.

I actually just today made the -10AN oil return line from my stock turbo to the pan. I would actually prefer to make a solid line but I am not sure how to flare -10 :lol:
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

Thanks! I am going to buy the kit from RPM, does sportmachines make anything?
Quickstop [UK] said:
Orange is the coolant return. The black one is the oil return. It's an annoying pipe - hardline from the turbo to rubber hose to hardpipe into the pan - I THINK. Definitely a PITA to solve.
The other two are the tranny lines.

I actually just today made the -10AN oil return line from my stock turbo to the pan. I would actually prefer to make a solid line but I am not sure how to flare -10 :lol:
Click to expand...
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: oil return line

You'd have to ask them.

It's not that hard to make your own if you're inclined. Get the PTFE hose and fittings, not rubber braided hose.

Use some heavy duty shears to cut the hose to length then use a vice and oil up the threads and hose so it goes together. Probably about $40. If I recall, RPM were about $85. PM me if you want to go that route and I can add more detail. I bought some lines from them that didn't line up so decided to make my own in future. It's cheaper and you have more flexibility over fittings.
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: oil return line

From Dave P:
Remove the nut from the trans cooler lines clamp, and move the cooler lines out of the way for access.
Cut the hose clamps with diagonal cutters.
Slit the hose with a razor knife and remove. Use the old hose for guide to length of new hose.
Obtain a piece of hot-oil rated hose. Cloth covered hose is not available in 5/8, so you will be using 11/32.
Remove the inner fender well.
Remove the metal line from the turbo. Make a new gasket.
Put your new hose on the pan fitting.
Use a dab of RTV on the gasket, insert the me4tal line into the hose, and install/tighten bolts on turbo.
Install conventional hose clamps and tighten on hose.
Reinstall trans cooler bracket and fender well.
Check for leaks, but there won't be any.

Takes me about an hour to do this on my lift.
It will take a lot longer just to find the parts for anything else. Why bother? Another hose will outlast the truck.

I will try this route first!
 
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