rocker adjustment

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Sounds about like what I did. I did each cylinder 1 at a time. Starting with cylinder 1 and working right down the driver side. Still going to have to make some final adjustments.

The bum thing about this is I ripped the truck all apart and read about L35 heads last night searching here on forum being.prone to cracking in the valve seat area. Here I just discovered the heads were upgraded yesterday. Then I did some back research keying in 10238181 and read almost all the posts. Looked the heads over pretty good but wasn't able to retract the valves Or see any type of coolant seeping. I probably messed up and put everything back together not catching this crack or whatever it is causing coolant in the oil.

On top of that, the truck idles at 2500-3000 rpm. Starts @ 2500 than screams up to 3000 with out any signs of backing down. Not sure what I did but things are not the same. I thought it was the timing making it rev hi. Must be something else I didn't catch. I will try to remove the IAC plug to see if it idle down but I'm not feeling too good about this one. All vac lines are back to there locations.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Don W.]

Re: rocker adjustment

There was a thread earlier where the entire throttle body was removed and sealed off. The engine started and ran indicating a massive vac leak. You might try this.

Three causes of high idle speed that come quickly to mind are, in no particular order, vac leak, failed IAC, maladjusted "idle screw" on the throttle body. This is NOT an idle screw but is used to properly set the IAC.

Another high idle cause is a failed EGR valve assuming you have one. Or if you don't it's not properly blocked off.

 

[Damian]

Re: rocker adjustment

Recheck all your vacuum lines.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Its throwing code 35 which has me stumped. Something with map. I'm going over it now in my book here but seems like I'm not getting too far. The next page talks about code 35 and high idle, that's why I'm stumped. Code 34 giving such high idle?

Even disconnect the IAC idle did not go down. I turned dist. Slightly backwards and it went down to about 1600 -2000 rpm but still not safe enough for me to get under there and make any adjustments when running.

I just pulled out my IAC signal tester plugged in to the harness and its supposed to cycle iac red/green. It did it once then both lit red like the eyes of doom.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Was a typo. Is throwing code 34. As well as 42. I disconnected the connector under dash to attempt to set timing.

I was confused because the idle is so high and throwing code 34, where the next page explains code 35 and is high/low/irregular idle...

I scrwed something up that's for sure. I'm starting to think I mugged up the seal to the China wall. I used black rtv and doubled up for the reason I did not want a leak ( or this to happen!!) Starting to think my double up was not enough. Or something else is wrong.

 

[Don W.]

Re: rocker adjustment

I ended up doing the adjustments. Went down the driver side and did it 1 by 1. When the intake valve closed I tightens down the exhaust than when the exhaust valve closed I did the intake. Did the same on the other side. Was probably a more timely way to do it. I started the truck real quick and heard a little noise or klack on the driver side. Valve covers are still off. Never put them on or bothered contaminating the gaskets. The truck idled up real high. Not sure if its the timing or a vac. Leak. I found 1 large upper intake vac line off at the front. Haven't tried to start it again because I cut my hand bad.

Well you can't adjust valves this way. It sounds logical but it won't work because you don't know where you are on the cam. For example when the exhaust valve is nearly closed or just closed the intake is already on its way open. You will end up with the intake way to loose. You just can't adjust valves this way.

When you say tighten down the exhaust/intake what, exactly does that mean?

Once the cyl you're adjusting is in position (as I described in my earlier post) loosen the adjustment nut until the rocker and pushrod are loose. (This compensates for any previous mis adjustment.) Then tighten the adjustment nut just enough to where you can't easily spin the pushrod. Then go another 1/2 turn.

Your high idle may or may not be a result of improper valve adjustment but until the valves are adjusted correctly you're chasing your tail.

 

[liquidswords88]

Re: rocker adjustment





This picture is from a G.M. Factory service manual. I'm sure you can just use 6cyl instead of 8. I know I'm a little late to the party on this thread. I was reading some posts about pre soaking the lifters before installing. I am doing this same job on my ty right now, and I just purchased 12 new sealed power lifters. The lifters I purchased were off of eBay and they said they were brand new but they all came pre soaked in oil? There is no wear marks on them so I assume they come that way from the factory. Every single one of them was stiff as a board. I had to take them all apart and dump the oil out of them so I could set the preload. I have been told by many high end engine builders that valve lash is always set on a empty lifter (hydraulic). You tighten the nut down until you have used up half of the travel of the lifter. As far as them being dry on start up, that's why you always prime the system with the proper tool. The proper tool is not a cut off screwdriver either. You must use the priming tool that has the bushing part that replicates the distributor. If you do not put resistance on the oil galleys in the distributor hole you will not build enough pressure to prime all of the lifters properly. You also better have one hell of a drill or you will burn up that cheap tool sale drill in about 5 minutes.

 

[Don W.]

Re: rocker adjustment

Sorry, but you can't just switch to cyl 6 because the firing order is different. However this procedure -does- work if done in the proper order. In fact it's the one used in the manual. The advantage is once you're on TDC #1 it only requires one rev of crank. The disadvantage, for me anyway, is loosing track of where I am. :rotf: All three systems work, mine, the book, and the one I posted.

If someone doesn't beat me to it I'll post the factory, one turn of the crank, method tonight.

 

[liquidswords88]

Re: rocker adjustment

Makes sense. Not trying to put bad info out there sorry. I always do it with the intake off so you can see when the lifter is at the base of the cam. That way no fancy sequence is needed. I'm new to these v6 deals used to the good ole v8

 

[Don W.]

Re: rocker adjustment

OK, here's the method from the factory manual.

Rotate engine until you are at TDC #1 firing. (Valves not moving.)

Adjust the following:
Exhaust: 1, 5, 6
Intake: 1. 2, 3

Rotate engine ONE revolution back to the timing mark. You are now at TDC #4 firing.

Adjust the following:
Exhaust: 2. 3. 4
Intake: 4, 5, 6

Adjust as follows: Loosen adjusting nut until the pushrod is loose. Tighten until "all lash is removed." Turn ONE full additional turn. You read that right. ONE as in the number 1.

Remember this is factory. You may choose otherwise.

HTH

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Went ahead and redid the adjustments again. There was some noise the first time on the one side. And I also messed up the lower intake gasket so had to come apart.

Did it the first time after the head gaskets and the truck did run. Now that I re did it I can't get the truck to run now at all. Turns over and pops but does not start up. I'm wondering if something is way out of adjustment and I did a bunch of damage. I checked for spark and it's there. I went over the dist. And it seemed to be on the wrong stroke. I had to re do that as well.

If I set it up to do the adjustments on the wrong tdc stroke would that cause more, and more problems? Funny thing is tried to get some one here and pay them but seems to be hard to find some one who knows what there doing

 

[Neelsonwheels]

Re: rocker adjustment

You said lower intake gasket correct? if so you had to remove the Distributor. I would start there. My bet is its off. :2cents:
Good luck.

 

[Couger1968]

Re: rocker adjustment

i think you are 180 off

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

I been messing with it all day. I had some one put there thumb/finger on the #1 cylinder and verified air being forced out ( didn't seem right was on a different location/mark before I pulled it.) Closest I got to running was a few pathetic little pops or misfires

I dropped dist. back in. It pointed to #1 location. Everything seems to be correct??

I do believe I had it out of time the first time.like i said it was on the wrong compression stroke/balancer mark. I'm not sure if 180* out is the correct term or not.

 

[Couger1968]

Re: rocker adjustment

i don't think you did any damage. I have had the center electrode inside the cap break off. Maybe pull the cap off and check everything out. Maybe a plug on the distributor is loose. I guess if it were me i would double check connecions and vacuums. Maybe you are just a long way off top dead center. Did you check your distributor by setting top dead on 1 and verifying that it actually pointed at 1 on the cap. I made a mark on the distributor case with the cap on where 1 is then dropped it in until the rotor pointed at it. My oil pump moved and I had to mess with it a little to get it exactly where I wanted it.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Yes I did all that.

Believe it or not my cap was mugged up. The center electrode was weged up in the plastic. I'm assuming it did not make contact with the center section on rotor. I did verify on new cap it does push in/out. The truck did run on this cap, but seemed like a issue as the center electrode was not retracting from the top. Was wedged or busted.

I also did verify #1 position on dist with cap off and mark on the balancer. maybe I am a tooth or two off? After I bring it to where I think tdc is... The dist. Drops right in no real fussing with it.

 

[Couger1968]

Re: rocker adjustment

i guess maybe you could try to spray a little ether in the intake to verify it isn't fuel related. I don't know why it would be.

 

[Couger1968]

Re: rocker adjustment

I think you are off on the distributor. If you have the valve cover off #1 side I would look at the valves while turning it over by hand.1 of the things I don't understand about these trucks is the 2 marks on the balancer, I am sure there is a reason, but it just complicates things. I painted my actual TDC mark white to make it easier to see.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: rocker adjustment

Thanks for sharing that Dave, I will take that into consideration and make a mental note of this info when I'm back under the hood.

Funny thing is...... I did the adjusting the first time and the truck ran but I heard noise on driver side. Everything had to come back apart down to intake manifold. I installed my new lower gaskets. Moved forward with the install of all the other bolt on stuff.

Re Did the adjustments per Dons info provided and truck sounds like chitty chitty bang bang. It doesn't fire. Turns over and I can hear valves opening/closing and air. Air mainly sounds like it is coming from throttle body? Not like a leak at plugs/heads/intake... This issue could be dist. And timing related. Which I working on.

Spark is present. Fuel too plugs were gassy.

 

[wildphil]

Re: rocker adjustment

Slipped ring on the balancer messed me up the first time I came across the problem. Took me several hours to figure out. I have had it on at least one of my other trucks after.

Most cams are set at 1/2 to 1 turn after you feel the pushrod to just start not rotating freely in your fingers or zero lash.

The cam and lifter combo I have is supposed to be set from 0 to 1/8 turn.