RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

One last pic....

The wastegate actuator rod needs to be bent about 23 degrees, then the rod end for the actuator rod is also bent 23 degees.... this makes kind of an 'S' curve out of the whole mechanism so that it will line up properly with the wastegate lever...
I broke two of the rod ends trying to bend them, so finally just brazed the tab on the rod end jigged up at 23 degrees - no binding, works perfect!

 

[turbodig]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

One last pic....

The wastegate actuator rod needs to be bent about 23 degrees, then the rod end for the actuator rod is also bent 23 degees.... this makes kind of an 'S' curve out of the whole mechanism so that it will line up properly with the wastegate lever...
I broke two of the rod ends trying to bend them, so finally just brazed the tab on the rod end jigged up at 23 degrees - no binding, works perfect!

Yikes.

You need something like this:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-009&Category_Code=BCS

Would allow the rod to be perpendicular to the arm.

Actually, you could just pick up one of the 2-bolt actuators and make the bracket above...
it's just flat plate.

I've done things like you have in the past, and while it seems to function well initially, it doesn't work well for very long. I realize you had to do with what you had at the time, though.

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

Yikes.

You need something like this:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-009&Category_Code=BCS

Would allow the rod to be perpendicular to the arm.

I know what you mean, Dig.... this is one of those things I need to go back and clean up. I'm used to building control surface linkages for airplanes (anyway I did when I was back in Wyoming and had my shop) and am very sensitive to differential throw issues... sometimes they can be used to one's advantage, but not in this case. I'll order one of those brackets you posted the link for and will search out a 2-bolt diaphragm. Thanks for the help!
...Rob

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I might have missed this but Rob why did you have to bend up the adjustment rod?

 

[turbodig]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I might have missed this but Rob why did you have to bend up the adjustment rod?

I'm guessing it's because he reclocked the outlet to point more straight up so it wouldn't hit the battery. I've had to do similar things with a TE-44 in the past...

Maybe Renz's reclock bracket would be useful....?

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I'm guessing it's because he reclocked the outlet to point more straight up so it wouldn't hit the battery. I've had to do similar things with a TE-44 in the past...

Maybe Renz's reclock bracket would be useful....?

Makes sense

I only asked though because with my stage1 I was able to reclock as I pleased without issues with the wastegate. actually right now the compressor housing is sitting at the 9 'o clock position to meet up with my ic piping. I'm going to be moving more to a 11 o' clock position when I get time so I didn't really see why bending of the rod was needed.

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I might have missed this but Rob why did you have to bend up the adjustment rod?

The wastegate actuator/bracket supplied with the Stage1 only allows the bracket to be placed in one set of holes on the compressor housing (you could keep the rod straight and in alignment with the wastegate arm if you could clock the compressor housing to about the 10 o'clock position as viewed from in front)
... if I tried to re-clock the wastegate to a different set of holes it would have interfered with the oil outlet flange.

Since I wanted the compressor outlet facing straight up (to use a stock-style replacement IC hard-pipe), and to eliminate the interference with the battery positive post, this is just how things ended up lining up. So, that's what caused me to bend the rod...

It's funny in that looking through Dig's link to the ATP turbo site they offer a new wastegate actuator with its rod bent almost exactly as I did mine

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

Maybe Renz's reclock bracket would be useful....?

Mike was nice enough to send me home with one of his brackets from Nats just to try. I haven't reported this to him yet, but the inner circumference of the bracket interferes with the coolant and oil flanges exiting the cartridge. It could be modified to fit, but I think Mike would actually have to have one of the turbos in front of him to account for all the needed detail work....

 

[Slowcone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

Makes sense

I only asked though because with my stage1 I was able to reclock as I pleased without issues with the wastegate. actually right now the compressor housing is sitting at the 9 'o clock position to meet up with my ic piping. I'm going to be moving more to a 11 o' clock position when I get time so I didn't really see why bending of the rod was needed.

im at the 11 oclock also on the stage one kit

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

One last pic to close out this thread...

I put the inner fenderwell in last night. At the wastegate actuator location I had to pound a 2" deep clearance pocket into the inner fenderwell just to get the fenderwell to bolt back into a place -- not a big deal, a soft blow hammer did the job.

A word of warning - the turbo assembly to battery clearance is extremely tight!!

I have one of the smaller series batteries in the Sy and had to make sure it was moved away from the turbo as much as possible (look for the orange lines in the pic to show the gap - actually about 3/4" in real life) - other clearance issues are present.

Just to make sure engine torque doesn't drive the turbo assembly over into a non-movable object, I've ordered one of the nice torque strap assemblies from NALLJ92 at this thread http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=52479

 

[ghettosled]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

fyi, the aluminum hard pipes are not designed to be used with the aftermarket turbos.. The compressor housing discharge sits higher on the garrett turbos so the geometry is different.. Probably why you are having so much trouble.

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

fyi, the aluminum hard pipes are not designed to be used with the aftermarket turbos.. The compressor housing discharge sits higher on the garrett turbos so the geometry is different.. Probably why you are having so much trouble.

Hi Mike,
Yup, I found that out the second I went to put the one I had ordered from you for my stock turbo on.... What's shown in the pic is the factory softpipe with a thermo tube on it... I'll probably have a new hardpipe mandrel bent for it, unless you happen to have one in your stable of goodies

 

[ghettosled]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

i recently made one, but they look kinda "weird" from a cosmetic point of view. The simple 90 looks alot nicer.

It was "S" shaped with 2" aluminum pipe on a 2" centerline radius which is the tightest bend you can buy.

I'll try to find a pic. Downside is the material alone is over $70, not to mention the time to cut and weld it all together.

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

i recently made one, but they look kinda "weird" from a cosmetic point of view. The simple 90 looks alot nicer.

It was "S" shaped with 2" aluminum pipe on a 2" centerline radius which is the tightest bend you can buy.

I'll try to find a pic. Downside is the material alone is over $70, not to mention the time to cut and weld it all together.

I think the tube would look a little strange too. I don't really want to go with any length of rubber/silicone tubing over 2". When we had our Oklahoma meet last weekend Dave's Sy was literally falling on its face (boostwise) right at 19lbs... after a lot of investigation it turned out the compressor inlet pipe (rubber) was collapsing at that boost level....just like sticking your hand over the end of a vacuum cleaner hose - an immediate stop to air flow.... some guys are using radiator hose pieces but I think they'd have a tendency to collapse as well.... going on vacation or two weeks, so will look into a solution when I get back....

 

[turbodig]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I think the tube would look a little strange too. I don't really want to go with any length of rubber/silicone tubing over 2". When we had our Oklahoma meet last weekend Dave's Sy was literally falling on its face (boostwise) right at 19lbs... after a lot of investigation it turned out the compressor inlet pipe (rubber) was collapsing at that boost level....just like sticking your hand over the end of a vacuum cleaner hose - an immediate stop to air flow.... some guys are using radiator hose pieces but I think they'd have a tendency to collapse as well.... going on vacation or two weeks, so will look into a solution when I get back....

I've used rad hose on the outlet for years. Works fine. It's not gonna collapse with pressure on the inside. It does balloon a bit.

Lotsa s-shaped radiator hoses out there...

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: RPM Stage1 Turbo Install...

I've used rad hose on the outlet for years. Works fine. It's not gonna collapse with pressure on the inside. It does balloon a bit.

Lotsa s-shaped radiator hoses out there...

Duhhh... what was I thinking?? Of course I was thinking about the wrong hose, and yes, it would be fine on the pressurized side..... I've been trying to engineer the fresh air setup for the inlet side, in my head, for about a week now and got temporarily confused... happening more and more often as I get older .... :rant: