what build do you want to see?

[nightdiver]

I really dont think that the average syty owner wants to loose OD and lock up future

 

[Boosted]

here is another way to look at it. Build it as if you were not who you are.
Build it like you are the average Ty enthusiast, and not RPM.

Since the majority of us are average joes, i think thats why you are seeing the idea of stock block / vortecs / off the shelf cam, etc.

My :2cents:
stock block filled...vortecs....eagles....srp's.....
I like the idea to go with the Edelbrock intake with the elbow, etc. If you want a "cleaner" install, as you hinted, you can flip the intake tubing to the right or left side, however you want. Use street parts over race parts. No Brodix, etc. Use this to educate the masses why DFI or equivalent is easier/better then 7449 computer with chipping, etc.

TH350 if you are going to swap the gears to 3.08's.

 

[Syborg Twin Turbo]

Looking back on my current build i almost wish i would have done a stock block type build i could have saved about 20 grand on the build. I do however plan to drive mine daily and even take it on the power tour.

So for me i think the build sequence should be

Stage 1
Stock Block & Cryo Crank
4 Bolt Conversion
Eagle Rods
TRW Pistons (great for street use)
OTC - Cam

Stage 2
L35's or vortec heads
Stock Upper & Lower manifolds

Stage 3
Stock Exhaust Manifolds Coated
Turbo - something to get the truck in the 10's
Your Downpipe

Stage 4
a2a
Aluminum Radiator

Stage 5
Big Stuff Engine Management

Stage 6
TH350 Tranny
Custom Drive shaft (if needed)
3.08 gears

Stage 7
JS Front Suspension
Ladder Bar rear Suspension

If you show the cost as stages people can start collecting parts in a actual sequence. This will help people in the long run when the build there truck as they won't be jumping around buying parts that take them away from the current stage. It allows them to actually finish things.

Trust me when i say this is the way to build your vehicle. I know this has helped me for sure. It has kept me from spending money on things that i won't need for 1 or 2 years.

 

[ghettosled]

If i wanted to make this a race truck, i could easily swap the bowtie motor out of my typhoon and go after the awd record. but realistically this isnt what I want to do. My typhoon is already set up with all the safety equiptment, fuel system, plumbing etc and it is built to handle the power. Unfortunately i made the decision to go rwd for the sake of being competitive in any sanctioning racing class out west.

But truthfully, I miss the days of a reliable truck that ran even low 12s. For one, i wanted to build something i can enjoy on a daily basis, but also something that all the syty enthusiats can relate to. This means nothing radical, and something that can be built with off the shelf parts that are currently available.

As for the transmission, yes the OD is nice. A 4l80e and big stuff would be a great addition to the project, but consider thowing your budget away. I honestly dont see us building a truck that will only run low 11s which is where i start to draw the line for reliability with the 700r4. This is this reason that i dont want to mess with the 700. We have done several 3 speeds and honestly there isnt much of a difference, plus it is alot cheaper. I dont plan on doing alot of highway driving so this is a sacrifice i am willing to take.

The way i see the build heading is the following;

Stock Block/Nitrided Crank
.030 SRP
Eagle Rods
4 bolt mains
422 cam
Vortec heads (ported)
cometic gaskets
stock exhaust manifolds (ported w/ new crossover)
Accel DFI w/ dual sync distributor
RPM Turbo kit (w/ some used turbo i have lying around); A/A intercooler
RPM AC delete kit
75# Injectors
th400 with 3.08 gears
caltracs/flexaforms/rancho 9000 shocks
dual intank 255 fuel pumps, with new feed line
edlebrock intake for vortec heads with EFI bungs, sideways mount tb for use with rpm a/a (preferred but debating)

 

[bigtime]

Mike,
Why the dual sync? do you really think there is a advantage to go sequential in a engine thats boosted and doesn't see a whole lot of rpm?
Other than that the engine sounds just like my Ty engine!

 

[bezerk]

Other than that the engine sounds just like my Ty engine!

and i wonder how far tha combo can push it!

alot of syty people are going that way, cause of the budget. i think for RPM it is a wise thing to do...
if he could make some killer times, make a few products that make us go faster with that budget...

good idea.

 

[NOJIMMY]

...Okay <since no one else is thinking outta-the-box>

Why not try something COMPLETELY different:
-manual transmission
-nitrous stages
-independent rear suspension from a vette
-a GM suitable front-end swap
-different diff`s, gears, axles, and/or tubbing
-narrow front/wide rear AWD Tire/Wheel combo
-extreme weight reduction
-etc

Seems that there are plenty of examples of:
-V8 Conversions
-Twin Turbos
-Bowtie Block Builds
-Completely Stock "Tuned" examples
and indepth details from our experts like Ed, Nolan, Matt, <and other greats>
who have explored typical engine/tranny/suspension mods.

If you were able to discover a parts-compatibilty donor, or mucho gain
from a non-standard combo, think of the advantages (business and
hobby value). Not saying the comments to date havent been
inventive, but given the STREET/STRIP/DRIVING status of this vehicle,
it would seem that leaving the PS, A/C, and maybe ABS alone
(rather than removing for racing purposes) would be appropriate.
Doesnt CA get hot? <grin>. But these items are driver comforts
and non-performance/critical in my thinking for the intended vehicle
use.

Anyway, since no one else has the resources <to do Parts Swapping with
other GMish vehicles>
I think the TH350 and TH400 are great ways of RECEIPE Changes.
Just wish ya would "continue" on your theme.....(like F-body disk brakes).

thanks

 

[MRKING]

[quote="NOJIMMY

Why not try something COMPLETELY different:
-manual transmission
-nitrous stages
-independent rear suspension from a vette
-a GM suitable front-end swap
-different diff`s, gears, axles, and/or tubbing
-narrow front/wide rear AWD Tire/Wheel combo
-extreme weight reduction
-etc
[/quote]


I think the words "within a budget" and "as cheap as possible" dont apply to that list .

 

[THEMADTYPH00N]

flat tapet hyd cam (radical enough to get ya about 1psi vacuum)

Why flat tapet?

 

[tealty]

Mike,

I'd say do that simple combo and try to make it as light as possible whilst not making it look like a civic (ie gutted interior, etc.). A tube frame chassis would be cool, but it is time consuming and $$.
Or you could just do a combo with mostly parts you fabricate and if you have a customer who wants low 11's/high 10's, then you have a build sheet for them and an example. Or if they stopped by your shop, you can take them for a spin to show them that if they get these parts, it'll feel like this. It could become your "test mule" so whenever you have a new part fabbed up, you can throw it on that sy and test it at the track or take pix for potential buyers.
later
Jordan

 

[denny]

Since the majority of SYTY are running low 12 low 13, I say build something that can run low 11s high 10 , use as much stock parts as possible. This way the average Joe can spent 5 to 7k on RPM parts on their truck to copy your build.
This might not be possible but you can't stop a man from dreaming.

Denny
ny

 

[nightdiver]

Mike before you get your hands dirty.....sent my parts first :wink:

 

[Captain Morgan]

I wanna see the "n00b build".......you know, the build that all those guys who dont have a clue about what they are doing or anything about SyTys ask when they first join...........

how about.....

stock motor with high miles
stock heads
headers
KB chip
TE-44 turbo
Splitfire plugs
stock wires, cap, rotor
250 shot of nitrous
stock trans
12" 3000 stall converter
B&M shift kit
22" spinners
8" snorkel hood
4x4 decals


....that should do the trick :rock: :rotf:

 

[MRKING]

good one .

good one .

I know you were kidding , but I would like to see some positive stories about using nitrous on our trucks . 250 is a bit much , but 100-150 would be interseting .

Maybe that could make onto his build sheet ??

 

[ghettosled]

Since the majority of SYTY are running low 12 low 13, I say build something that can run low 11s high 10 , use as much stock parts as possible. This way the average Joe can spent 5 to 7k on RPM parts on their truck to copy your build.
This might not be possible but you can't stop a man from dreaming.

Denny
ny

One major factor people must consider is the labor involved. We will save thousands because we do our own machine work, assembly, welding, R&R etc. I think $5-7k on parts is pretty reasonable.

 

[JuStBlAzIN]

Since the majority of SYTY are running low 12 low 13, I say build something that can run low 11s high 10 , use as much stock parts as possible. This way the average Joe can spent 5 to 7k on RPM parts on their truck to copy your build.
This might not be possible but you can't stop a man from dreaming.

Denny
ny

One major factor people must consider is the labor involved. We will save thousands because we do our own machine work, assembly, welding, R&R etc. I think $5-7k on parts is pretty reasonable.

If you do keep record on the $$$ spent....you should also keep record of the labor hours that will go into it....have like a sheet right next to the truck..so u can sign the hours worked on it..then after when u do the #'s u can total in your labor cost/hr...and have both #'s...this is just to see the labor hrs involved and cost

 

[Maxtor]

Since the majority of SYTY are running low 12 low 13, I say build something that can run low 11s high 10 , use as much stock parts as possible. This way the average Joe can spent 5 to 7k on RPM parts on their truck to copy your build.
This might not be possible but you can't stop a man from dreaming.

This is what I was thinking as well.... keep track of the parts needed and put together a recipe list for a low "reliable" 11 sec/high 10 sec streetable Syclone (a little slower for a Ty). Make it a complete list, include all the details that are important such as the fuel pump, plugs, traction bars, etc., etc....

Allowing someone to copy everything down to the details should also allow you to sell an engine management system with a program that will get the owner close out of the box.

Have fun :tup:

 

[ghettosled]

yep, this is pretty much what i intend to do.. As for the labor hours, we charge a flat labor rate for these builds anyways, just so the customer doesnt have to worry about getting nickle and dimed.

I still got quiete a few things to finish up before we tackle this project, but all your imput is greatly appeciated.

tasos, your pickup was scheduled last week for today.

 

[TurboPhoon]

I think that a truck that is very streetable with a 4l80e tans (still awd of course) in it would be awsome. I think that a lot of people on the board here are gettting sick of there 700 and would like to put somthing in that is strong enough to hold up to some real power but still retain there 4th gear. So i think a awd with a new 4l80e with a rpm install kit (witch i hope would be added into the rpm catalog so i could buy one ) that runs a streetable 11 or so would kick ass.

 

[nightdiver]

I think there is a TH400 with lock up tc. Am i wrong ?
With 3.08 gears you can travel with 90 mph and 3800 rpm. Thats just 800 rpm higher than the OD has with stock ratios