Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

[sytyguy]

I know that some of you have shown interest in doing this and since I did it on my Typhoon build I just finished, I figured I'd share some pics:

Items needed:
- Bypass Valve
- Threaded Adapter
- Short Oil Filter

My machinist had the adapter I needed, but you can easily pull one from a non-remote oil filter 4.3L block (3/8" hex). Don't try to pull it out of the remote adapter as you'll either strip the internal hex or destroy the adapter. The bypass valve was already in my block, but if your's isn't, check with a local machine shop (drive it in with a socket very carefully - they're fragile). The filter is a short GM filter (like you find on a 2.2L S10, Cavalier, etc...)....WIX PN is 51040.



Unrelated: And for those of you who've figured it out, please leave the cat in the bag. I'll announce it soon enough. If you don't understand this, then ignore it.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

I see your motor is still out? But what kind of clearance do you end up with to the front shaft? Presumably enough for removal eh? :lol:

Thinking of this only because I have a seep at one of the hoses going to the ex filter.

Tx

 

[BigBadSmoosh]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

it looks like it would be a pain to change the filter.

 

[TYRODD]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

it looks like it would be a pain to change the filter.

True, the Ty is a breeze to change the filter. BUT, cleans up the engine compartment a bit doing this.

Hmm...wheels are turning...

 

[sytyguy]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

I see your motor is still out? But what kind of clearance do you end up with to the front shaft? Presumably enough for removal eh? :lol:

Thinking of this only because I have a seep at one of the hoses going to the ex filter.

Tx

Motor is in. Plenty of room b/t the front shaft and diff.

 

[sytyguy]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

it looks like it would be a pain to change the filter.

...and yet it's not. There's an "arm's width" of room b/t the front shaft and the bellhousing/block area. More than enough room to change it. And since my truck goes on the lift for an oil change anyways, it's no trouble whilst I'm under there.

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

aside from deleting the remote housing and lines, is there any other advantage or reason to switch to this?

 

[BigBadSmoosh]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

aside from deleting the remote housing and lines, is there any other advantage or reason to switch to this?

a oil change requires less oil, saves money!

 

[brock1949]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

so i when i built my last motor build i used a TY motor and when i was done building it i swapped my adapter on from my other 4.3 and screwed a oil filter on and did .. nothing else. I've been having the worest problem with an oil leak from the feed port above it going to my turbo. I swapped 3 different fittings and even made a new oil supply line because i was convinced maybe it was the joint between the to. Its not a horrible leak but its enough once it is drivable i'll be not really that happy with it.

So i needed to put a checkvalve in to run the filter on the block? Would this somehow cause my turbo oil feed outlet to start leaking? I have some more question about how to make my 80psi oil pressure not leak strait through my turbo.. so how to size/fit/use NOS lol fittings to regulate it.

Thanks i'm like month or so from getting this thing on the road

 

[Don W.]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Check valve in the filter won't help.

Now my :2cents: on how to fix this leak.

First clean the fitting real well. BrakeClean works good. Then try to figure out if the leak is at the flare where the hose attaches or at the pipe thread where the fitting screws into the block. Either way you're gonna remove the fitting.

if it's the flare then examine the fitting for damage or wear where the bevel is. Also look for a hairline crack at the flare on the hose. No amount of teflon tape or "pipe dope" will fix a leak here. Replace the fitting and/or hose.

If it's the pipe thread where the fitting screws into the block then clean the threads real well and go to the hardware store and get some RectorSeal. (AKA real pipe dope) Do NOT use teflon tape. Use a small amount of seal, applied evenly, on the threads of the fitting. Tighten but don't over tighten. Pipe threads are tapered and you can over tighten them.

Test yur work.

HTH

 

[DanenGraham]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Where does the check valve go? Not seeing it in your pics. And why do you even need it?
Sorry, i might just be stupid. But couldnt you just put the adapter and filter on and be set.

I have been wanting to do this for a while now.

 

[4C FED]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Where does the check valve go? Not seeing it in your pics. And why do you even need it?
Sorry, i might just be stupid. But couldnt you just put the adapter and filter on and be set.

I have been wanting to do this for a while now.

Check Valve = Bypass Valve.

In this pic it is hidden behind the filter nipple.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

That's a bypass valve. If the pressure differential (difference between filter inlet, and filter outlet) gets higher than the valve opening setting, oil doesn't go through the filter (or the coolers), but goes straight into the engine. If this valve is open, some of the oil isn't getting filtered. Period.

I did some calculations, and came up with a setting of about 20 psi. This is differential pressure, or drop across the filter. The smaller the filter element, the higher this differential will be. Choose your filter brand carefully, for maximum filter media area. The larger the surface is, the lower the pressure drop, and you won't open the bypass valve and get unfiltered oil to the bearings. Wix and Baldwin filters have the largest media areas of all the brands. Especially Fram. If you do this mod, do not use a Fram filter.

Engine builders that really don't want debris problems, block this valve so it can't open, and make sure the filters are large enough to handle the volume. If the pressure drop is too high, it will blow the filter off the base, or blow the gasket out. Another reason for the by-pass valve.

X2

And most filters have their own bypass valve built in if for no other reason than to prevent blown filters.

 

[ty-rob]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

are you still running some kind of oil cooler? don't you need a cooler to help with the heat the turbo puts into the oil?

 

[sytyguy]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

are you still running some kind of oil cooler? don't you need a cooler to help with the heat the turbo puts into the oil?

No oil cooler. We've seen in the past that oil temps are minimally higher w/o a cooler than with (this was on an S10 with a SyTy conversion - no oil cooler - temps were well below an alarming level), so it's trade-off I'm willing to make.

 

[4C FED]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Here's the PN for the block nipple: 14081300

 

[brock1949]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Check valve in the filter won't help.

Now my :2cents: on how to fix this leak.

First clean the fitting real well. BrakeClean works good. Then try to figure out if the leak is at the flare where the hose attaches or at the pipe thread where the fitting screws into the block. Either way you're gonna remove the fitting.

if it's the flare then examine the fitting for damage or wear where the bevel is. Also look for a hairline crack at the flare on the hose. No amount of teflon tape or "pipe dope" will fix a leak here. Replace the fitting and/or hose.

If it's the pipe thread where the fitting screws into the block then clean the threads real well and go to the hardware store and get some RectorSeal. (AKA real pipe dope) Do NOT use teflon tape. Use a small amount of seal, applied evenly, on the threads of the fitting. Tighten but don't over tighten. Pipe threads are tapered and you can over tighten them.

Test yur work.

HTH

Thanks Don, I think i'm pulling the motor next month due to leaking head studs and I had a couple other random problem i need to look into so when its out i'm going to clean it all up and really check over it. So those threads int the block are tapered.. I don't know that the fittings i'm using a truly a tapered fitting... I'm using whatever pipe thread was the same the summit sells. Do you guys have a part number for a propper fitting etc?

 

[sytyguy]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Don't have it in my hand, but IIRC, it's 1/4" NPT to -4 AN....which would be an Earl's 961644ERL.

 

[4C FED]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

- Short Oil Filter
The filter is a short GM filter (like you find on a 2.2L S10, Cavalier, etc...)....WIX PN is 51040.

How much longer do you think the filter could the filter be before it ran into the diff/flange?

 

[sytyguy]

Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Will measure and snap more pics tomorrow.