Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Ok so I guess I am still new to the SyTy set up. I bought a Ty last year and have been feveroushly working on getting it back up and running. After copious amounts of body work and welding in new metal and redoing the entire front end and suspension I have started driving it occasionally.

I have noticed an oil leak and ckeck the oil every couple trips and add some if needed. Yesterday after getting home I noticed a small circle maybe 2 inches in diameter and a trail of drips heading from up the road, it was running in the driveway for maybe 2 minutes... I have cleaned up and replaced most gaskets up top without getting deep into the engine. Down below is all original..... I was thinking oil pan and gasket as well as the remote oil lines... Reading the few threads I could find I saw some had mentioned the filter on the block... I did this on my old blazer that had the 4.3L and some of the threads were talking about tapered adapters and dealing with the turbo oil lines?

I will replace the oil coolant lines if I need to because I am do not want to get too deep into this right now... just looking to stop the oil issue for a year or two until I can get funds for a more complete engine overhaul...

Can I get away with a filter or do I need something more... I could not figure out this thread with you guys talking about valves in the block or filter or what have you...
 

asmo

Sy #2918
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Look bad one page, you just need the gm nipple forcefed has listed there. and a short filter.
the stock filter will not work .
 

leadfoot

Member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Jags that run write up:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instructions/4.3-V6-oil-cooler-removal.pdf





14081300.jpg
 

UniqueTyph

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Hey good to know. Thanks for the part info and write up, I will keep that in mind if the problem persists!

For those that mentioned the gaskets on the lines and block and the couple that mentioned my lack of proper time planning.... Over turkey day I brought the truck to my dads who has a lift. I got the idea from a couple guys at work to use roughly 2ft of extensions and reach through from the front around where the intercooler used to hang, run parallel to the pan and remove the 1/2in bolt that holds the lines to the adapter. Worked like a champ... Took the other two 1/2in bolts that hold the adapter to he block out an it dropped down like nothing. Scraped and lightly sanded off the old gaskets, cleaned in gas an reassembled in reverse order. Worked really well and oil leak has since been stopped. Don't know if anyone tackled it that way but it worked awesome.

Anyways thanks for links leadfoot!
 

d80229

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

is this able to be done while the engine is in the truck ?? my remote lines are leaking a lil bit i want to do this but do not know if i can with the engine in the truck ??
 

13Pelle

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

is this able to be done while the engine is in the truck ?? my remote lines are leaking a lil bit i want to do this but do not know if i can with the engine in the truck ??

Yes, it can be done with the engine in the truck.
 

Black Knight

I Glow Therefore I am
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Yes, the only PIA is getting the old lines out in one piece.

I gave up on the last two and took a sawzall to them :)
 

Throws

Active member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

So... is there a bypass on the block? Shorter filter?

-P
 

canadian

sy in progress
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

OK, I'm in the middle of this conversion and I've managed to get every thing out. I'm at the point where I'm going to install the adapter into the block, but when removing the old adapter, it looks like there was a bunch of the gasket still stuck to the block side.

You can see it here, but the picture is crappy:

SDC13145.jpg


I've spent the better part of the last hour trying to strip it all off, and here's where I'm at. Most of the gasket is gone, just some goop left. Is that good enough, or do I risk running crap through the engine? You can see a little ring around the bottom of the adapter, but I can't manage to scrape it off. Basically I'm paranoid that when I start the truck it will get zero oil pressure and I'll be screwed.

SDC13147.jpg
 

sy605

Member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Looks good to go. If you want it perfect steel wool would get in there...just be careful to not get too crazy with it and get steel wool pieces in the holes.
 

Black Knight

I Glow Therefore I am
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

That's cleaner than I did both of mine and they never had an issue, run it!
 

canadian

sy in progress
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

That's cleaner than I did both of mine and they never had an issue, run it!

OK, perfect. I actually went back out there and scraped some more crap off of it, so I'm fairly confident in my work. I think I may run a batch of crap 10w30 oil through for a while and then change it for 2 reasons:

1) If there is a leak of some sort, I won't be wasting decent oil.
2) I just did a bottle of top end cleaner in the truck and figure it can't hurt to try and get more crap out.

Thanks for the replies. I have to say that this is more of a pain in the ass than putting solid motor mounts in with the engine in the truck.
 

canadian

sy in progress
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

OK, just screwed the adapter in the block and will be testing for leaks tomorrow. Last few questions, which were prompted by this post about capacity, and this post about filling the holes in the radiator.

1) Capacity is reduced 1/2 quart, so start with 4 quarts and see how it goes. It would be nice not to have to 1/2 quart sitting on the shelf between changes.
2) Is it necessary to plug the holes in the radiator where the lines attached? There shouldn't be any coolant coming out, I'm assuming just old oil.
 

abes_sy

SY #2995
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

I never plugged the holes in my radiator and haven't had any issues. I did spray a bunch of brake cleaner in there to try to get as much stuff out as i could and not have constant oil residue coming out.
 

IpHoOnDyou

New member
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

OK, just screwed the adapter in the block and will be testing for leaks tomorrow. Last few questions, which were prompted by this post about capacity, and this post about filling the holes in the radiator.

1) Capacity is reduced 1/2 quart, so start with 4 quarts and see how it goes. It would be nice not to have to 1/2 quart sitting on the shelf between changes.
2) Is it necessary to plug the holes in the radiator where the lines attached? There shouldn't be any coolant coming out, I'm assuming just old oil.

Did you put a little blue thread loc on the end so the fitting does not come out every oil change? If you didnt you might wana do that....hint....hint. As for the holes in the rad, who cares just leave emm open, it wont due the truck any harm.
 

canadian

sy in progress
Re: Converting to an "On-The-Block" Oil Filter

Did you put a little blue thread loc on the end so the fitting does not come out every oil change? If you didnt you might wana do that....hint....hint. As for the holes in the rad, who cares just leave emm open, it wont due the truck any harm.

Yes, added blue Permatex thread locker as per DaveP. Thanks for looking out for me!
 
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