rod advice

BMFB

Not to scale
well, ive got everything for my motor except rods. for my motor build i went pretty mild, using the stock cam, heads, and intake, as well as injectors. i went with some probe forged pistions that are around 8.7:1. crank is a scat evenfire. tuning on the truck was done using code 59 by myself, and i was running it @ 18psi with no detonation. (engine blew due to a bad oil pump) cranks 2 bolt with good arp bolts. for rods i was thinking about going stock, with arp bolts, and my builder says that should work fine. i could go with the eagle h beams, but to get them to my door would be 430 dollars. i know with those h beams the only way the bottom end would come out is...disastously, but it would be super stong. im really not thinking im going to want to mae it much faster than it already is, as it would need to prolly be 4 bolted, new heads, intake, injectors, and trans to make any significant increase, and that sounds...expencive. what do you guys think?
 

jklein68

Donating Member
Re: rod advice

You could look at L35 or Vortec factory rods as an alternative. As I understand it they are a better alternative to the stock rods but not as strong as Eagle or Oliver rods.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: rod advice

Do the Eagle rods and leave the rest for another day. That way you have the option if you want to do something else later.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: rod advice

its just im asking because its a ...pretty...mild engine, and im just looking for some words of advice
 

turbodig

Active member
Re: rod advice

its just im asking because its a ...pretty...mild engine, and im just looking for some words of advice

Decent prep and bolts on stock rods will live a long time, given that you don't let it ping. (verified by plugs)

I think I lot of people would be shocked what you can do with a decent set of forged pistons and stock everything else....
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: rod advice

stock syty engines were built in romulus. L35 engines were built in tonawanda. romulus rods are stronger than tonawanda rods.

easy to believe the L35 is stronger because of its higher output rating. but they are not. maybe its because L35 has 2 knock sensors mounted in the heads where they are very effective at detecting detonation, which is what bends rods, that the L35 lives with a rod that does not live (bends) if installed in a syty replacement engine.

there have been pictures of twisted eagle rods on here too. not sure what the answer is.

I am not convinced L35 or Vortec Rods are any stronger than stock LB4 rods (syty)

http://www.syty.net/forums/showpost.php?p=524998&postcount=8

Somone who twisted a set of eagle rods must have had some major detonation or a castrophic failure.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: rod advice

I would do eagle rods for peace of mind. It may be another $400, but rebuilds aren't cheap and it's a lot of work later if you change your mind. At the minimum I would do what dig suggested.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: rod advice

I ended up with a set of the eagle h beams. They wernt as epencive as i thought they would be. Shipped to my house for 380. Only thing I have to choose now are valve springs. Keeping me stock cam for now, anyone have any opinions on new springs?
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: rod advice

thats what im thinking, but they dont make just a 'stock' spring, i saw summit had a set that were for a 350 for like, 75 bucks. comp makes a couple sets of cheaper ones as well. when i say cheaper, i guess i mean less agressive, cause the spring i see are for .500 and above lift.
 

turbodig

Active member
Re: rod advice

I ended up with a set of the eagle h beams. They wernt as epencive as i thought they would be. Shipped to my house for 380. Only thing I have to choose now are valve springs. Keeping me stock cam for now, anyone have any opinions on new springs?

2 things with the eagles you may not know...

1) You will need to clearance the pan,
2) Some blocks, the rods get very close to the block in places. Make sure you check this closely all the way around.

Do yourself a favor and balance it. It'll work without it, but it's a lot smoother with.

Springs will depend on your cam and intended overall lift (including rocker ratio).
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: rod advice

so, when you say clearance the pan, do you mean the sides, or the lip.

everything is stock about my valve train, including cam
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: rod advice

wow, thats not what i was expecting, did you clearance those? or did your rods :lol:

but alright, that doesnt look like to big a deal to do, but its nice to know about it, hopefully the rods clear my block
 
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