Electric fan
- Thread starter JAY
- Start date
Re: Electric fan
Well, I got the Volvo fan and began modifying the fan shroud to mount it. I wanted to keep the original radiator support and mounting set-up. The fan measures 24" wide... exactly the same as the raised portion of the shroud. The height is about 1/2" to big but I think I can work with it ok.
I'll have some pics up soon but I think it's going to be a very clean looking install and all stock location/fasteners. Now I just need to wire it up and see what happens.
SERV...I haven't searched yet but I need a simple wiring option to control it with temp. Any ideas? I like the idea you did with yours but I am not that involved yet. I'll do a search and see what I can find. I need to keep it simple to work on a stock truck.
Well, I got the Volvo fan and began modifying the fan shroud to mount it. I wanted to keep the original radiator support and mounting set-up. The fan measures 24" wide... exactly the same as the raised portion of the shroud. The height is about 1/2" to big but I think I can work with it ok.
I'll have some pics up soon but I think it's going to be a very clean looking install and all stock location/fasteners. Now I just need to wire it up and see what happens.
SERV...I haven't searched yet but I need a simple wiring option to control it with temp. Any ideas? I like the idea you did with yours but I am not that involved yet. I'll do a search and see what I can find. I need to keep it simple to work on a stock truck.
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
OK, I see how you wired it up now. Assuming the fans aren't too noisy on high, I'll probably wire them up that way as well. The only difference is I ordered the harness, which comes with separate relays for each fan. I will hook up my multimeter to the back of the alternator with and without the fans running to quantify the voltage drop. I'll also take readings from the ECM 12v wires. I need to do the same for the Derale tranny cooler under the bed. Anything to get rid of that nasty turbine sound from the stock clutch fan.
OK, I see how you wired it up now. Assuming the fans aren't too noisy on high, I'll probably wire them up that way as well. The only difference is I ordered the harness, which comes with separate relays for each fan. I will hook up my multimeter to the back of the alternator with and without the fans running to quantify the voltage drop. I'll also take readings from the ECM 12v wires. I need to do the same for the Derale tranny cooler under the bed. Anything to get rid of that nasty turbine sound from the stock clutch fan.
Tommyquest said:It's linear. It will ramp up fan speed as temp. rises 60%-%100. I didn't use a harness. I just wired it as if it would run on high all the time; all three + fan leads together, negatives together and then to the + & - outputs of the fan controller
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
OK, I have everything I need to wire up the Ramchargers fans this weekend. What I've got here are the dual-fans, Caspers harness with dual-relays, manual switch, and FLX-33054 progressive controller. It's a lot of wires and I'm not 100% sure how all of this needs to be wired up, so maybe the guys who've hooked these up before could walk me through it. Here's what I'm working with:
I plan on using the manual switch that came with the Caspers harness and connecting it to the 'manual override ON' terminal on the Flex-A-Lite control module. This would allow me to turn both fans on high during racing or on really hot days, regardless of what the thermostatic probe is reading. I also intend to wire up the AC compressor positive trigger wire to the Flex-A-Lite module so the fans cycle off when the AC clutch engages.
I will put a 30A inline fuse on the red wire going from the harness to the back of the PowerMaster alternator. Hopefully, the wiring won't melt like someone else had experienced in here. My understanding is to hardwire the Ramchargers fans on high, you simply apply 12v to both the green and yellow wires together...easy enough.
The big question is HTF do you wire up the FLX-33054 progressive fan controller!?! The thing didn't come with any instructions and their website has some cheesy install page that doesn't describe which terminals on the module do what:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/vsc.html
Does anyone know what connections 1 through 11 on the Flex-A-Lite module go to what? One final question is where is the best place to locate the temp probe in the radiator fins? That instruction pages says to locate it close to the radiator inlet, which I'm assuming is somewhere near the upper radiator hose, correct?
OK, I have everything I need to wire up the Ramchargers fans this weekend. What I've got here are the dual-fans, Caspers harness with dual-relays, manual switch, and FLX-33054 progressive controller. It's a lot of wires and I'm not 100% sure how all of this needs to be wired up, so maybe the guys who've hooked these up before could walk me through it. Here's what I'm working with:
I plan on using the manual switch that came with the Caspers harness and connecting it to the 'manual override ON' terminal on the Flex-A-Lite control module. This would allow me to turn both fans on high during racing or on really hot days, regardless of what the thermostatic probe is reading. I also intend to wire up the AC compressor positive trigger wire to the Flex-A-Lite module so the fans cycle off when the AC clutch engages.
I will put a 30A inline fuse on the red wire going from the harness to the back of the PowerMaster alternator. Hopefully, the wiring won't melt like someone else had experienced in here. My understanding is to hardwire the Ramchargers fans on high, you simply apply 12v to both the green and yellow wires together...easy enough.
The big question is HTF do you wire up the FLX-33054 progressive fan controller!?! The thing didn't come with any instructions and their website has some cheesy install page that doesn't describe which terminals on the module do what:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/vsc.html
Does anyone know what connections 1 through 11 on the Flex-A-Lite module go to what? One final question is where is the best place to locate the temp probe in the radiator fins? That instruction pages says to locate it close to the radiator inlet, which I'm assuming is somewhere near the upper radiator hose, correct?
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
I found a writeup with instructions and pics for the VSC:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-109782.html
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/vsc-page1.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/vsc-page2.jpg
I found a writeup with instructions and pics for the VSC:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-109782.html
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/vsc-page1.jpg
http://james.jaguar.net/pics/vsc-page2.jpg
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
Got everything wired up today. These electric fans free up a lot of space and are super quiet compared to that stock metal POS clutch fan
However, I'm having some problems with the fans right off the bat.
First, the fans are cycling on/off repeatedly and only bringing temps down to 170F or so. I know what's causing it - the fan is cooling off the probe that's stuffed through the radiator core. Would like to get a different sensor for the VSC, preferably one that threads into the intake manifold. Or maybe I can just use the stock coolant temp sensor? I will give Flex-A-Lite a call tomorrow about this.
Second issue is my tach flutters like crazy when the fans kick on, like the old SMC alky kit used to do without a capacitor, but worse. I used the IGN terminal on the fuse panel for the VSC "ignition hot" signal. Ground for the VSC goes to intake manifold and battery 12v goes to alternator lug. Do I need to add a capacitor in somewhere to fix this?
The last issue is the fans sometimes nearly kill the motor when they come on, even with the VSC, which is supposed to only spin the fans at 60% initially. The 30A inline fuse on the VSC battery hot 10AWG wire already blew after driving around the neighborhood a bit. I'm guessing these fans draw more than 30A on high then? Not even sure if they make blade fuses bigger than 30A, any ideas?
Otherwise, the fans are awesome. They are super quiet and really clean up the engine compartment. Also, the motor spins up much quicker with the e-fans, it's very noticeable. I'm still waiting for the TurboTime upper radiator support to finish up the project. Here are some pics:
Got everything wired up today. These electric fans free up a lot of space and are super quiet compared to that stock metal POS clutch fan
However, I'm having some problems with the fans right off the bat. First, the fans are cycling on/off repeatedly and only bringing temps down to 170F or so. I know what's causing it - the fan is cooling off the probe that's stuffed through the radiator core. Would like to get a different sensor for the VSC, preferably one that threads into the intake manifold. Or maybe I can just use the stock coolant temp sensor? I will give Flex-A-Lite a call tomorrow about this.
Second issue is my tach flutters like crazy when the fans kick on, like the old SMC alky kit used to do without a capacitor, but worse. I used the IGN terminal on the fuse panel for the VSC "ignition hot" signal. Ground for the VSC goes to intake manifold and battery 12v goes to alternator lug. Do I need to add a capacitor in somewhere to fix this?
The last issue is the fans sometimes nearly kill the motor when they come on, even with the VSC, which is supposed to only spin the fans at 60% initially. The 30A inline fuse on the VSC battery hot 10AWG wire already blew after driving around the neighborhood a bit. I'm guessing these fans draw more than 30A on high then? Not even sure if they make blade fuses bigger than 30A, any ideas?
Otherwise, the fans are awesome. They are super quiet and really clean up the engine compartment. Also, the motor spins up much quicker with the e-fans, it's very noticeable. I'm still waiting for the TurboTime upper radiator support to finish up the project. Here are some pics:
Tommyquest
The Member's Member
Re: Electric fan
Instead of the alternator run the 12v power to here since the battery is basically a big capacitor.
Did you use the Casper harness? I'd ditch it. I wired yellow and green together and then both to the + fan output on the controller. Both fan grounds together and then to the - fan output on the controller. My 12v is to the pic I posted, ground of the controller is to the back on the drivers side head (I have a ground strap from the pass. side head to the frame). No spikes, no flutter, just coolness
Instead of the alternator run the 12v power to here since the battery is basically a big capacitor.
Did you use the Casper harness? I'd ditch it. I wired yellow and green together and then both to the + fan output on the controller. Both fan grounds together and then to the - fan output on the controller. My 12v is to the pic I posted, ground of the controller is to the back on the drivers side head (I have a ground strap from the pass. side head to the frame). No spikes, no flutter, just coolness
Last edited:
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
Yup, I decided not to use the Caspers harness since the Flex-A-Lite is basically a 45A relay itself. The harness is listed for sale here, priced to move:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32280
I was planning on redoing the 12V hot 10AWG wire and running it all the way to the rear of the truck where the battery is, but what a PITA! I did notice those two terminals you showed in your picture are constant hot, maybe I'll give that a try instead. My ground is using 10AWG to the bolt in the front of the intake where the two factory grounds go, near the alternator. I'd really like to know what's causing the tach to flutter like this. The same thing happened when I put my SMC alky injection system in a few years ago. The solution was to put a capacitor on the 12v ignition "on" wire, problem solved. I noticed the Razor alky system that I run now didn't require a cap since it has one already soldered inline with the wiring I'll go ahead and move the 12v hot (fused) wire from the back of the alternator to the firewall like you did and see if that helps any.
BTW, what sort of fuse are you using on the 12v hot wire? Mine already blew a 30A blade-style fuse...I replaced it and the fans are working OK again. I suppose I'll need to step up to a 35 or 40A fuse instead? 30A seems to be the highest rated "blade type" fuse available.
Will post an update once I have tried a few different things.
Yup, I decided not to use the Caspers harness since the Flex-A-Lite is basically a 45A relay itself. The harness is listed for sale here, priced to move:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32280
I was planning on redoing the 12V hot 10AWG wire and running it all the way to the rear of the truck where the battery is, but what a PITA! I did notice those two terminals you showed in your picture are constant hot, maybe I'll give that a try instead. My ground is using 10AWG to the bolt in the front of the intake where the two factory grounds go, near the alternator. I'd really like to know what's causing the tach to flutter like this. The same thing happened when I put my SMC alky injection system in a few years ago. The solution was to put a capacitor on the 12v ignition "on" wire, problem solved. I noticed the Razor alky system that I run now didn't require a cap since it has one already soldered inline with the wiring
I'll go ahead and move the 12v hot (fused) wire from the back of the alternator to the firewall like you did and see if that helps any. BTW, what sort of fuse are you using on the 12v hot wire? Mine already blew a 30A blade-style fuse...I replaced it and the fans are working OK again. I suppose I'll need to step up to a 35 or 40A fuse instead? 30A seems to be the highest rated "blade type" fuse available.
Will post an update once I have tried a few different things.
Tommyquest
The Member's Member
Re: Electric fan
I also have the battery in the back and that firewall spot is directly connected to the + coming up from the battery. I am running a 30A. I popped a couple of 30's when I had it grounded to the firewall and the wire was hot. I think it's all in the ground. Since I switched it to the back of the head I haven't had any problems.
I also have the battery in the back and that firewall spot is directly connected to the + coming up from the battery. I am running a 30A. I popped a couple of 30's when I had it grounded to the firewall and the wire was hot. I think it's all in the ground. Since I switched it to the back of the head I haven't had any problems.
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Electric fan
When you find out about this, PLEASE post. I just bought a volvo fan and was about to buy the flexalite VSC until I read about the thermostat, now I'm not so sure...mrweelr said:
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Electric fan
Blade type fuses come larger, I have a 40 amp sitting here if you want it send me an address and Ill mail it out.
Blade type fuses come larger, I have a 40 amp sitting here if you want it send me an address and Ill mail it out.
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Electric fan
Auto meter makes a probe that will go into the intake and ground a relay to trigger fans at a certain temp.
Auto meter makes a probe that will go into the intake and ground a relay to trigger fans at a certain temp.
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Electric fan
will that work with the VSC ( assuming it's a multiple temp sensor for the variable output )?
will that work with the VSC ( assuming it's a multiple temp sensor for the variable output )?
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
Well, no dice...I moved the 10AWG wire from the back of the alternator to the firewall post and the same shit is happening - truck almost dies when the fans kick on and the tach flutters like mad. The needle actually shoots up to max (full sweep) when this happens. So it appears that the problem lies with the IGN output I'm using on the fuse panel, not the 12v hot wire. I really hope there's a way to solve this problem, because I can't live with these unpleasant side-effects. Right now, the thermostat on/off cycling is the least of my worries...I need to figure out why the truck almost dies when the fans come on, despite the use of the 45A VSC.
At least the 30A fuse I put in didn't pop this time I drove it around. Maybe if I rewire the fans on "low" instead of "high", the hit will be less when the fans come on? They seem to cool really well, I'm not sure if having them hardwired on high is necessary.
If anyone has any ideas on how to get these fans working without the ugly side-effects, please chime in. I will let you guys know what I find out from Flex-A-Lite tomorrow. I saw those probes on the Summit site, but they are not two-wire sensors like the one that goes into the radiator core. There are already two coolant temp sensors on our trucks - is there a way to make the VSC read that signal instead?
Well, no dice...I moved the 10AWG wire from the back of the alternator to the firewall post and the same shit is happening - truck almost dies when the fans kick on and the tach flutters like mad. The needle actually shoots up to max (full sweep) when this happens. So it appears that the problem lies with the IGN output I'm using on the fuse panel, not the 12v hot wire. I really hope there's a way to solve this problem, because I can't live with these unpleasant side-effects. Right now, the thermostat on/off cycling is the least of my worries...I need to figure out why the truck almost dies when the fans come on, despite the use of the 45A VSC.
At least the 30A fuse I put in didn't pop this time I drove it around. Maybe if I rewire the fans on "low" instead of "high", the hit will be less when the fans come on? They seem to cool really well, I'm not sure if having them hardwired on high is necessary.
If anyone has any ideas on how to get these fans working without the ugly side-effects, please chime in. I will let you guys know what I find out from Flex-A-Lite tomorrow. I saw those probes on the Summit site, but they are not two-wire sensors like the one that goes into the radiator core. There are already two coolant temp sensors on our trucks - is there a way to make the VSC read that signal instead?
Tommyquest
The Member's Member
Re: Electric fan
Being that I don't have air to water anymore and it looks like you don't either I used the 12v switched from the pump harness to #9 positive ignition signal.
Being that I don't have air to water anymore and it looks like you don't either I used the 12v switched from the pump harness to #9 positive ignition signal.
Tommyquest
The Member's Member
Re: Electric fan
Yup, it's the connector for the IC pump. 12v switched and it's nice and close
Yup, it's the connector for the IC pump. 12v switched and it's nice and close
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
OK, tried that and it made absolutely no difference. I don't know WTF is going on here. Why is the tach going nuts with these electric fans!?! Truck almost dies every time the fans come on, and my stuff is supposedly wired up the same as others. I'm thinking a 200A PowerMaster is going to be necessary for these fans. I have a PowerMaster 140A in there now, but these fans seem to just suck the life out of the electrical system when they come on Maybe upgrading to a 200A alternator and rewiring the fans on low will help.
OK, tried that and it made absolutely no difference. I don't know WTF is going on here. Why is the tach going nuts with these electric fans!?! Truck almost dies every time the fans come on, and my stuff is supposedly wired up the same as others. I'm thinking a 200A PowerMaster is going to be necessary for these fans. I have a PowerMaster 140A in there now, but these fans seem to just suck the life out of the electrical system when they come on
Maybe upgrading to a 200A alternator and rewiring the fans on low will help.
mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
Regarding the tach flutter, I know with the SMC alky pump, noise would make it's way back into the ignition circuit and cause this behavior. To solve that problem, I just used a 220uF eletrolytic capacitor (# 272-1017) on the IGN feed wire for the SMC pump. I'll try unhooking the "ignition on" wire from the VSC tomorrow and plugging it into 12v hot on the firewall. If the tach flutter goes away, then I'll just reuse that cap I had on the SMC pump.
As for the idle dropping when the hungry dual-electric fans hit, I'm thinking a car-audio type capacitor would solve the problem. If anyone knows of a small cap that can handle a 60 amp load for 10 seconds or so, please let me know what you suggest. No way I'm adding a second battery for these fans...a cap should do the trick.
Regarding the tach flutter, I know with the SMC alky pump, noise would make it's way back into the ignition circuit and cause this behavior. To solve that problem, I just used a 220uF eletrolytic capacitor (# 272-1017) on the IGN feed wire for the SMC pump. I'll try unhooking the "ignition on" wire from the VSC tomorrow and plugging it into 12v hot on the firewall. If the tach flutter goes away, then I'll just reuse that cap I had on the SMC pump.
As for the idle dropping when the hungry dual-electric fans hit, I'm thinking a car-audio type capacitor would solve the problem. If anyone knows of a small cap that can handle a 60 amp load for 10 seconds or so, please let me know what you suggest. No way I'm adding a second battery for these fans...a cap should do the trick.
Crimson93Ty
PITA new guy
Re: Electric fan
Where did you mount the controller at? Keep the controller away from the ECM if possible.
It's been mentioned already but worth repeating. The battery has reserve capacity and is charged by the alternator. Hook the 12 volt feed to the battery(your headlights are hooked up that way) and ground it to the battery as well. For your ignition feed, run the ignition on wire from the CAC relay to ANOTHER relay on the firewall and then use the 12 volt stud on the firewall as the 12 volt feed for the new relay and run THAT to the VSC as the "ignition on" connector. That make sense? Because the 2nd relay your running will ONLY be active when the ignition is "ON". This will isolate the ignition itself from the fans.
Make sure that you ONLY hook up ONE wire from your AC. I called Flex a lite about this and the melting VSC's have been from people running BOTH wires from the AC to the VSC. This will melt down the VSC. Good luck.
Where did you mount the controller at? Keep the controller away from the ECM if possible.
It's been mentioned already but worth repeating. The battery has reserve capacity and is charged by the alternator. Hook the 12 volt feed to the battery(your headlights are hooked up that way) and ground it to the battery as well. For your ignition feed, run the ignition on wire from the CAC relay to ANOTHER relay on the firewall and then use the 12 volt stud on the firewall as the 12 volt feed for the new relay and run THAT to the VSC as the "ignition on" connector. That make sense? Because the 2nd relay your running will ONLY be active when the ignition is "ON". This will isolate the ignition itself from the fans.
Make sure that you ONLY hook up ONE wire from your AC. I called Flex a lite about this and the melting VSC's have been from people running BOTH wires from the AC to the VSC. This will melt down the VSC. Good luck.