mrweelr
New member
Re: Electric fan
I picked up a 220uF 35V electrolytic capacitor to hook up to the "ignition on" wire. Maybe this will supress the noise making its way back into the ignition. For the fans cycling on/off around 170F issue, I spoke with Dave at Flex-A-Lite and there is no easy way to rig up a different sending unit, like the kind Summit sells. You need to use a two-wire probe to keep the variable speed functionality, at least that's what I was told. What he said is to put a resistor on the terminal 10 wire to the VSC. This will change the temperature "sweep" of the probe as follows:
1/4 watt resistor
1K >< 170 - 120F
2K >< 160 - 220F
3K >< 150 - 210F
I guess the guys with 160 or 180F thermostats were experiencing this problem since the motor temps are already near the lower end of the probes temp range. I picked up a 1/4 watt, 3.3K Ohm resistor and will try that out to see if it fixes the fan cycling issue. I already had the adjustment on the VSC turned as low as it would go and the coolest it would get the motor is 169F, then the fans would shut off. I want the fans to come on around 170F and shut off in the low 160s.
The controller is mounted where the windshield washer reservoir used to be (see pics above). Optima RedTop 800CCA battery is mounted in front of the right rear wheel, far from the alternator. I've have a 0 gauge cable running from the alternator to the battery already, as well as from the battery to the frame for ground. Trying to avoid running more wires to the back of the truck since long cables exhibit resistance and it's a major PITA to run cables that far.
I went ahead and ordered a new chrome PowerMaster 200A alternator last night to replace the 140 in there now. Not sure if it'll help, but I guess the 200 puts out 120A at idle vs. 80A for the 140 unit.
Basically, what you're saying is all the 12v sources need to come directly from the battery...got it. I will try a few more things, and if they don't solve the problem, I will redo all the $#@!$!&~$ wiring and go directly to the battery.
Thanks for the help guys.
I picked up a 220uF 35V electrolytic capacitor to hook up to the "ignition on" wire. Maybe this will supress the noise making its way back into the ignition. For the fans cycling on/off around 170F issue, I spoke with Dave at Flex-A-Lite and there is no easy way to rig up a different sending unit, like the kind Summit sells. You need to use a two-wire probe to keep the variable speed functionality, at least that's what I was told. What he said is to put a resistor on the terminal 10 wire to the VSC. This will change the temperature "sweep" of the probe as follows:
1/4 watt resistor
1K >< 170 - 120F
2K >< 160 - 220F
3K >< 150 - 210F
I guess the guys with 160 or 180F thermostats were experiencing this problem since the motor temps are already near the lower end of the probes temp range. I picked up a 1/4 watt, 3.3K Ohm resistor and will try that out to see if it fixes the fan cycling issue. I already had the adjustment on the VSC turned as low as it would go and the coolest it would get the motor is 169F, then the fans would shut off. I want the fans to come on around 170F and shut off in the low 160s.
The controller is mounted where the windshield washer reservoir used to be (see pics above). Optima RedTop 800CCA battery is mounted in front of the right rear wheel, far from the alternator. I've have a 0 gauge cable running from the alternator to the battery already, as well as from the battery to the frame for ground. Trying to avoid running more wires to the back of the truck since long cables exhibit resistance and it's a major PITA to run cables that far.
I went ahead and ordered a new chrome PowerMaster 200A alternator last night to replace the 140 in there now. Not sure if it'll help, but I guess the 200 puts out 120A at idle vs. 80A for the 140 unit.
Basically, what you're saying is all the 12v sources need to come directly from the battery...got it. I will try a few more things, and if they don't solve the problem, I will redo all the $#@!$!&~$ wiring and go directly to the battery.
Thanks for the help guys.